Valentine Borscht

Borscht is a peasant soup popular in Central and Eastern Europe. The word comes from the Slavic word borshchevik which means hogweed, a vegetable once important to the Slavs. Today the defining ingredient in borscht is beet root although there are some versions that do not contain beets. For more information about beets read my post from last year about a summer beet salad.

In the Ukraine, where borscht is likely to have originated, it is the national soup and was sometimes eaten multiple times a day as a main meal. It is also served as the first course of a traditional Polish Christmas meal. In other places, it is generally consumed before the main meal.

There are two key types of borscht – hot and cold. The hot version is often chunky, made with potatoes, vegetables and sometimes beef. The cold version is sometimes strained before serving and thus has a thinner consistency (similar to gazpacho). Variations abound and recipes have been known to include dried mushrooms, parsley, dill, lovage, green onions, basil, beans, pickled apples, plums, cherries, eggplant, olives, prunes, ham, mint, ginger, leeks, tomatoes, bell peppers, tarragon, paprika, oregano and sausage.

Many versions require the addition of an acid to sour the – this can be achieved through the addition of lemon, vinegar or citric acid. Some recipes call for natural fermentation which requires the soup to be made several days in advance. Borscht is often served with sour cream, yogurt, cream or a local dairy equivalent.

In North American borscht is closely associated with Ashkenazi Jewish traditions. The term ‘Borscht Belt’ refers to the swath of summer resorts in upstate New York that were popular with New York City Jews between the 1920s and 1960s.

As a humble and quotidian dish, I’ve never heard of the soup in conjunction with Valentine’s Day. However, it seemed perfect as a bright red starter on a cold winter day. It freezes well but will stain plastic containers so we opted to use one gallon freezer bags.

Serves 10-14

4 tablespoons olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
1 1/2 pound russet potatoes (about 2), peeled, chopped into small cubes
1/2 lb carrots, sliced
small cabbage or half a medium cabbage, thinly chopped
6-8 cups vegetable (or meat-based) broth
15 ounces diced tomatoes
4 large beets, peeled and chopped into small cubes
5 bay leaves
4 tablespoons red wine vinegar (balsamic or other)
1 bunch of dill, finely chopped
salt and pepper
sour cream, for garnish (optional)

1. Heat olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add onions, potatoes, carrots and cabbage. Sauté for 10 minutes.
2. Add broth, tomatoes, beets and bay leaves. Bring soup to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes.
3. Add red wine vinegar and 1/2 dill. Continue cooking for another 15 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.
4. Flavor with salt and pepper to taste. Remove bay leaves.
5. Serve with a dollop of sour cream and remaining dill.

Linzer Muffins

On a recent trip to London, my friends Teresa and Kaspar took me to Princi, a Milanese bakery in SoHo. After a healthy salad, I stood indecisively over a vast counter of rustic pastries. I opted for a large slice of linzertorte – an almond-flavored cake spread with raspberry jam.

These muffins take their inspiration from linzertorte, a traditional Austro-Hungarian specialty now popular throughout central Europe. The torte is named after the Austrian city of Linz which was founded by the Romans and was famously home to Kepler, Bruckner, Hitler and Wittgenstein.

The earliest recipe for linzertorte dates back to the mid 17th century. Traditionally it consists of three layers – a bottom layer of pastry made largely with ground nuts (usually almonds, sometimes hazelnuts or pecans, and rarely walnuts), a middle layer of jam (traditionally black currant lekvar, though apricot and raspberry are also used), and a topping of dough strips arranged in a lattice pattern.

Linzertorte is especially popular during Christmas. In addition to cakes and muffin, the concept has been extended to cookies which I sometimes make for Christmas and Valentine’s Day. Watch this space for the recipe…

Makes 12 muffins

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup almond meal
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 large egg
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1/2 cup raspberry jam
1/3 to 1/2 cup slivered almonds, untoasted, for garnish
confectioners sugar for dusting (optional)

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 375F. Prepare a muffin pan with foil or paper liners. If using paper liners, spray them with cooking spray.

2. In a medium bowl, mix flour, almond meal, baking powder, salt and cinnamon. Set aside.

3. In another, large bowl, beat an egg. Then add butter and sugar. Mix well. Add milk, lemon zest and almond extract.

4. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and mix until just combined. Do not overmix.

5. Distribute one heaping tablespoon of batter into each liner. Then add a teaspoon (or more) of jam. Fill liners with remaining batter.

6. Sprinkle each muffin with slivered almonds.

7. Bake for 20 minutes or until muffins are golden brown. Remove from the oven and cool muffins in their pan for 10 minutes.

8. These muffins can be served with a dusting of confectioner’s sugar.

Confetti Marshmallow Squares

These humble treats are evocative of my childhood. While they are fairly common in Canada, I have never seen them here in the United States. In fact, I couldn't even find multicolored mini marshmallows in Manhattan so I bought a couple of bags on my last trip home.

The modern marshmallow was invented in France in the mid-19^th century by whipping together egg whites, sugar, and root sap from the Marshmallow plant (Althaea officinalis). This flowering, perennial herb was originally native to salty marshes in Europe, North Africa and Asia and was valued by the ancient Syrians, Chinese, Arabs and Romans for its medicinal properties. The Egyptians mixed Marshmallow root sap with honey and nuts to produce a treat thought to have been served exclusively to the Pharaoh.

The original process to make marshmallows was labor-intensive and expensive – limiting the market for the confections to the French elite. After technological advances, especially an extrusion process patented by American Alex Doumakes, mass production of marshmallows became possible. Over the years, the recipe has changed dramatically: root sap has been replaced with gelatin; egg whites are obsolete; and various forms of sugar, coloring and flavor have been added.

The average American consumes almost 1/4 pound of marshmallows per year. They are used in a variety of American desserts and snacks including Rice Krispies treats, s’mores, and fluffernutters.

Confetti marshmallow squares are easy to make and ideal for the young, beginner or untalented cook. They are similar to an American confection called 'church windows' which also contains marshmallows and peanut butter as well as chocolate chips, coconut and nuts.

Makes 25 squares

Ingredients
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup smooth peanut butter
1 cup butterscotch chips
8 oz multicolored mini marshmallows

Directions

1. In a medium pot over lowest heat, melt butter and peanut butter. Add butterscotch chips and stir constantly until melted and smooth. The chips may take a while to fully melt but do not increase heat. Alternately, this can be done in a microwave.

2. Once melted, remove the pot from the heat. While cooling, butter a 9 x 9 inch baking pan. Line with wax paper and butter again.

3. Once the pot has cooled enough that you can comfortably touch the bottom, mix in the marshmallows until well coated with sauce. Marshmallows may melt if added to sauce that has not sufficiently cooled.

4. Spread mixture in the baking pan and use the back of a spoon to even out the surface. Place in the fridge for several hours or overnight. Using a sharp knife cut into 25 squares. Store in an airtight container for 2 weeks in the fridge or 3 months in the freezer; separate layers with wax paper to prevent sticking.

Pineapple Carrot Cake

This is the second carrot cake recipe featured on this site – a follow up to my post on carrot cupcakes which describes the origin of carrots (in Afghanistan) and their use as a sugar substitute in medieval times. Predecessors to modern carrot cake were baked in a piecrust akin to pumpkin pie or steamed like a plum pudding.

Carrot cake experienced a decline in popularity in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. In fact, it was fairly obscure until the second half of the twentieth century. In Britain it was revived by the Ministry of Food, which disseminated the recipe during the food rationing of World War Two. The signature cream cheese frosting is a modern American invention that appeared in the 1960s. Some attribute its newfound popularity to its perceived healthfulness since it contains no butter (which is high in saturated fat and cholesterol) and a significant amount of carrots; others dispute this given its sugar and oil content.

To address some of these concerns, this recipe has slightly less sugar and oil than the original, and is balanced by moist and sweet pineapple. The frosting for this recipe also uses an American Neufchatel which contains less fat than regular cream cheese without compromising the taste. Do not skip the coconut extract as it gives the cake an amazing fragrance. Carrot cake is versatile and you can add many of your favorite ingredients to it. I’ve included pineapple, coconut and walnuts; you could also add raisins, pecans, apples, cocoa powder, dried fruit or currants.

Serves 10-12

Ingredients

Cake:
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon allspice
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
4 large eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3/4 cup vegetable oil (canola or corn)
1lb carrots, grated (about 3 large carrots)
12 ounces crushed pineapple, drained
1/2 cup shredded coconut (optional)
1/2 to 1 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped and toasted (optional)

Frosting:
12 ounces cream cheese (up to 8 ounces can be American Neufchatel cheese (also called farmer’s cheese)), softened
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 cup confectioner’s sugar or to taste
1 teaspoon coconut extract
sprinkles or chopped nuts for garnish (optional)

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 350F. Butter and line two 8-inch round cake pans with parchment. Butter again and flour.

2. In a medium bowl mix flour, baking soda, cinnamon, allspice and salt. Set aside.

3. In a medium bowl, beat sugar and eggs using an electric mixer. Add vanilla and oil and mix well.

4. Add the flour mixture, continuing to beat on low speed.

5. Using a spatula, fold in the carrots, pineapple, coconut and walnuts.

6. Divide batter into cake pans and bake for 30-45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool to room temperature before frosting.

7. To make the frosting, beat together all the ingredients by hand.

8. Unfrosted carrot cake freezes well. Wrap in wax paper, then in saran wrap, and place in an airtight container. Should last 3 to 6 months. The frosting can be kept in an airtight container in the fridge for several weeks or in the freezer for several months.

9. You have several options in terms of presentation. You could individually frost each cake and serve separately. Or you could frost one cake and place the second cake (top-side down) on top and then frost the top and sides. Alternately, you could make half the frosting, frost only one cake, and eat the other cake without frosting (a dusting of confectioner's sugar provides a lovely and light alternate). I recommend eating a frostless cake fresh; frozen cake is best served with cream cheese.