Summer Eggplant Salad

This is a perfect starter or side dish for a hot summer day.

The eggplant is native to the Indian subcontinent and was brought to Europe by Arabs in the Middle Ages.  The first known written documentation comes from a Chinese agricultural text dating from 544; the first European reference is in an English botany text from 1597.

The eggplant is a member of the nightshade family and was domesticated from the wild nightshade, also known as the thorn apple or bitter apple.  It is closely related to the tomato and potato.  In most languages, the fruit is known by some variation of the words aubergine, brinjal, or melongene, all of which derive from a Dravidian word that was borrowed into Sanskrit and Pali, then into Persian, then into Arabic, and finally into European languages.

The 18^th century cultivars popular in Europe were spherical and light in color, hence the name ‘eggplant’ which is still used in American English.  Although most North Americans are now familiar with the dark purple cultivar, eggplants come in shades of white, yellow, green, and reddish-purple.  There is also great variation in size—ranging from that of a grape to a watermelon.

Eggplant has a firm skin and smooth, spongy flesh.  It can be stewed (as in French ratatouille), fried (as in Italian eggplant parmensan), stuffed (as in Turkish Imam bayildi), curried (as in Indian curries), mashed (as in Middle Eastern baba ghanoush or on pizza), pickled (as in Syrian makdous), and braised or steamed in various Chinese dishes.  Eggplant has become popular as a meat-substitute in vegetarian cuisine.

Five nations account for 90% of international eggplant production; China leads the way followed by India, Egypt, Iran, and Turkey.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 lemon, juiced

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground

2 pounds eggplant, cut into 1-inch chunks

3 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon capers, chopped

2 green bell peppers, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

1/4 cup fresh mint leaves

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

2. Whisk together the oil, lemon, salt, and pepper to create the dressing.

3. Toss eggplant with 1/3 cup dressing, and spread onto a baking sheet.  Bake for 30 minutes, tossing occasionally until tender and golden around edges.  Remove from the oven and let the eggplant cool so that it is warm (but not hot enough to melt the feta).

4. Mix feta, garlic, and capers into reserved dressing.

5. In a large bowl, combine baked eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, and mint leaves. Toss with reserved dressing and serve within 2 hours.

Tad's Fire Island Salad Nicoise

Last weekend we visited our friend Tad in Fire Island – a magical, summer resort located two hours from New York City. Fire Island is one of several outer barrier islands located on the south shore of Long Island. This sliver of land is 50 kilometers long and between 160-400 meters wide. There are several communities on the island, and a number of them have no roads or ban vehicular traffic during the summer months. The white, sandy beach is the primary attraction, though there is also an active nightlife. There are few hotels on the island, so the vast majority of people stay in private homes that are commonly rented out for the summer.

On Sunday, Tad made one of his signature dishes for lunch – a summery, fresh, salad nicoise. This is the second recipe on my blog inspired by the French Mediterranean classic. For details on its origins see my earlier post.


Serves 3-6

Ingredients
Salad dressing
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1-2 cloves garlic, finely minced
zest of 1 lemon, finely grated
1 teaspoon salt
pepper to taste

Salad
12-16 ounces tuna steak
10 ounces mixed greens
1-2 large tomatoes, sliced into sixths
1/8-1/4 lb pitted black olives
3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced into quarters (optional)
4-8 small potatoes, unpeeled, roasted and cooled, sliced into quarters
8-10 anchovy slices (optional)
salt and pepper, to taste

Directions
1. Make the salad dressing in a glass jar. Fill with ingredients and shake until well combined. Set aside.
2. Grill the tuna steaks for 2-3 minutes on each side (for rare) and 3-4 minutes on each side (for medium) until the outside is white in color. Remove from heat and cut into 1-inch cubes.
3. On an oblong or rectangular platter, arrange a bed of heaped greens. Spread tomatoes and olives over greens and top with tuna pieces. Arrange eggs, potatoes and anchovies around the perimeter of platter.
4. Dress with salt, pepper and salad dressing.

Nicoise Pasta Salad

This recipe is an adaptation of a classic from the French Mediterranean city of Nice (hence Niçoise). It is typically served as a combination of tuna, green beans, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, olives and hard-boiled eggs. Some versions also include anchovies, cucumbers, onions, lettuce and broad beans. When served on a baguette, it is known as pan-bagnat which means ‘wet bread’ in the regional dialect of Occitan (a language spoken in Southern France that is a close relative of Catalan). By adding pasta, this salad is transformed into a light dinner.

Ingredients

Pasta Salad

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 pound green beans, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch pieces

1 red bell pepper, chopped

8 ounces penne pasta, cooked and cooled

2 x 6- to 7-ounce can tuna, drained

3 green onions, thinly sliced

4 tablespoons capers

1/2 cup Kalamata olives (optional)

Vinaigrette

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1/2 lemon, juiced

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 garlic clove, minced

2 teaspoons dried oregano

salt and pepper, to taste

Directions

1. Over medium heat, sauté green beans and bell pepper in olive oil for 2 minutes.

2. In a large bowl, mix all of the pasta salad ingredients.

3. In a small jar, add all of the vinaigrette ingredients and shake well. Pour over pasta salad and mix well.

4. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately. Can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Summer Beet Salad

I have to admit that I had never been a big fan of beets – I thought of them as red potatoes, and I don’t like potatoes. However, this summer I prepared them at home for the first time and was surprised at how tasty they were, especially complemented with goat cheese, oranges and nuts. Given my sweet tooth, it’s surprising that beets aren’t a favorite since they contain more sugar than any other vegetable including carrot and sweet corn. Beets have 8-10% sugar while the closely related sugar beet can contain 15-20% sugar.

Beets (also known as garden beets or blood turnips) have been part of the human diet for millennia. Five thousand year old beet remains have been found at the ancient city of Thebes in Egypt and at a Neolithic site in the Netherlands. Domesticated beets are referenced in Roman and Jewish literary sources as far back as the 1st century BC. The garden beet is Beta vulgaris subspecies vulgaris, while chard (often called Swiss chard) is the closely related Beta vulgaris subspecies cicla, grown primarily for its leaves. They have both evolved from the sea beet which is Beta vulgaris subspecies maritima.

The Romans used beets as a remedy for fevers and constipation. They were also considered an aphrodisiac – substantiated due to their high boron content, which plays a role in the production of human sex hormones. More recently, beet juice has been shown to reduce blood pressure. Its properties as a panacea, however, have been overstated. South Africa’s Health Minister, now jokingly referred to as Dr. Beetroot, preposterously suggested beets and other vegetables as alternatives to antiretroviral drugs in the treatment of HIV/AIDS patients. Consuming beets can have unusual side effects such as causing red urine (known as beeturia) or red stool. Don’t worry – neither of these conditions is harmful.

Beets can be eaten steamed, roasted, pickled, canned or served raw. They can also be distilled into wine or spirits. Beet pulp is sometimes fed to horses, and the beet pigments are widely used as a food colorant.


Serves 4

Ingredients
3 medium beets (about 1 1/2 lbs)
6 ounces lettuce, washed and dried
1 blood orange, peeled, slices cut in half
4 ounces goat or feta cheese
1/3 cup toasted walnuts or hazelnuts, coarsely chopped (optional)
2 tablespoons chives, finely chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for roasting
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons orange juice
salt and fresh-ground black pepper, to taste

Directions
1. Wash and peel beets. Cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Note: beet juice is dark red and stains clothes and hands easily. In a glass or metal baking dish, toss beets with olive oil, salt and pepper.
2. Cover with foil and bake at 350F for 30-45 minutes, or until the beets are tender. Cool to room temperature. The beets can be roasted a day in advance. [second photo above]
3. On salad plates, mound the lettuce. Top with roasted beets, orange pieces, and cheese. Sprinkle with nuts and chives.
4. In a tight-lidded screw-top jar, mix olive oil, balsamic vinegar, orange juice, salt and pepper. Shake well and pour over salads.

Watermelon Feta Salad

Last weekend I hosted a baby shower brunch for a friend who is due in September. Thankfully, people ate heartily and we were left with few leftovers. As I began to pack things up, however, I realized that I still had half an uneaten watermelon that I had used as a base for fruit spears.

Watermelon, served in thick slices, is a treat that I associate with summer picnics and barbeques. Its size and juiciness lend itself to big outdoor gatherings. However, our guests has dispersed and there was no way that my roommate and I could consume all that melon.

Luckily, I was able to donate most of it to an undergraduate party. What remained I turned into a watermelon feta salad. I must admit I’d never eaten such a salad – I’d only been intrigued by the combination which I’d heard of over the years. I had assumed it was ‘California cuisine’, but web research leads me to believe it’s a traditional Greek dish. I couldn’t find conclusive evidence of this, so I’d welcome any comments or historical insight.

Incidentally, there are many other ways to serve watermelon – in soups, pies or grilled with meat. Maybe this summer I’ll post some more watermelon recipes.

Serves 4

Ingredients
1/8 of a watermelon, cut into 3/4 inch cubes (3-4 cups)
6 ounces feta, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1/4 red onion, separated into rings (optional)
olive oil
2 cups spinach leaves
balsamic vinegar (optional)
lime (optional)
black pepper, to taste

Directions
1. Mix watermelon, feta and red onion. Coat with olive oil and mix well.
2. Serve on a bed of spinach leaves or mix with spinach leaves.
3. Dress with balsamic vinegar or lime juice and freshly ground black pepper.

Fruit Spears

Last week I had dinner at Nougatine, a small Manhattan restaurant owned by celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The “amuse bouche” was a shot of watermelon juice with basil seeds and a spoonful of shrimp ceviche.

Although watermelons are available year-round as imports, domestic versions are at their peak from mid-June to late August. Many people purchase whole melons in the naïve belief that they can consume limitless quantities of this fruit. After all, it’s 92% water and has only 46 calories a cup.

For those of you who can’t figure out what to do with all of your melon, I suggest using it as a vessel or platform from which to serve a fruit salad. Here are some ideas from the web – the watermelon-as-carriage which is perfect for a baby shower.

Fruit salads are one of the most popular dishes at the brunches I host – they are colorful, fresh and fat-free. When served immediately they are delicious, but there is nothing worse than discolored fruit swimming in juice run-off. This alternate way to serve fruit provides more visual appeal and leaves you with firmer leftovers. Select the fruit carefully. Avoid those that are soft (i.e. kiwi or raspberries), discolor quickly (i.e. apples or bananas) or that don’t display well (i.e. orange slices).

Ingredients
4 or 5 types of fruit such as: pineapple, honeydew melon, cantaloupe, red or green grapes, strawberries, watermelon, mango or any other firm colorful fruit
half a watermelon (as base)
wooden skewers

Directions
1. Cut each type of fruit into 1 inch cubes. You can cut up fruit a day in advance and store in the fridge covered in saran wrap.
2. Select the order in which fruit will be displayed. Experiment with several patterns to make sure that fruits of a similar color are not adjacent (such as watermelon and strawberries) and that the combination is visually pleasing. Some fruit is more firm than others, so use a firm fruit at the bottom of the skewer to prevent sliding during the display period.
3. Create all skewers with the same pattern and lay flat on a tray. These can be kept for several hours in a fridge, loosely covered with saran wrap.
4. Set half a watermelon on a large tray, leaving the watermelon flesh intact. You can eat it after it is no longer a display item.
5. Using one of the skewers, poke holes in the watermelon rind in a series of rows. To assemble, insert fruit skewers into these holes.

Cypriot Salad

My friend Nadia is from Cyprus and she makes a lovely salad. When I accidentally referred to the salad as “Greek”, I was quickly corrected; apparently the Greeks don't use herbs in their salads. While this recipe has Mediterranean provenance, it is my favorite salad and I've made it for Navroz (Persian New Year), Christmas and many other occasions.

Ingredients
Salad
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
2 large tomatoes, chopped or 1 pint plum tomatoes cut in half lengthwise
1 head of Romaine lettuce, thinly sliced
1 bunch of cilantro, stalks removed, finely chopped
1 small red onion, sliced
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 cup black Kalamata olives
1/2 pound feta, crumbled by hand into large pieces

Vinaigrette
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
2 teaspoons kosher salt or to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste

Directions
1. Mix the first six salad ingredients with salad tongs. Make sure ingredients are dry before mixing – you may want to blot with a cloth or paper towel.
2. Place vinaigrette ingredients in an empty glass bottle. Screw on lid and shake well to emulsify. Pour over salad and mix well.
3. Decorate salad with onions, olives and feta cheese before serving. These are ingredients that many people don’t like, so if they are on top you can serve your picky guests from the bottom of the salad.

Nadia claims that unpitted olives have more flavor so she favors them to pitted ones. She also suggests using Greek olive oil.

This salad is great served with fresh pita or Greek flatbread.

Citrus Tuna Salad

As a kid I thought "tuna salad" was tuna fish on a green salad. In service to my original concept, I created this quick and simple dish which is ideal for lunch or a light dinner. The sweet orange and red pepper is a lovely contrast to the heat of the peperoncino and salty capers.

Serves 2

Ingredients

juice of 1 lemon
1 orange, segments separated and cut in half
1 red pepper, chopped
1 teaspoon dried parsley
1 can tuna
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 peperoncino, finely diced (optional)
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons capers

4 to 6 ounces mixed greens
toasted, sliced almonds, for garnish

Directions
1. Mix the first nine ingredients in a large bowl.
2. Distribute mixed greens onto two plates, and divide tuna mixture evenly.
3. Garnish with sliced almonds if desired.