Summer Eggplant Salad

This is a perfect starter or side dish for a hot summer day.

The eggplant is native to the Indian subcontinent and was brought to Europe by Arabs in the Middle Ages.  The first known written documentation comes from a Chinese agricultural text dating from 544; the first European reference is in an English botany text from 1597.

The eggplant is a member of the nightshade family and was domesticated from the wild nightshade, also known as the thorn apple or bitter apple.  It is closely related to the tomato and potato.  In most languages, the fruit is known by some variation of the words aubergine, brinjal, or melongene, all of which derive from a Dravidian word that was borrowed into Sanskrit and Pali, then into Persian, then into Arabic, and finally into European languages.

The 18^th century cultivars popular in Europe were spherical and light in color, hence the name ‘eggplant’ which is still used in American English.  Although most North Americans are now familiar with the dark purple cultivar, eggplants come in shades of white, yellow, green, and reddish-purple.  There is also great variation in size—ranging from that of a grape to a watermelon.

Eggplant has a firm skin and smooth, spongy flesh.  It can be stewed (as in French ratatouille), fried (as in Italian eggplant parmensan), stuffed (as in Turkish Imam bayildi), curried (as in Indian curries), mashed (as in Middle Eastern baba ghanoush or on pizza), pickled (as in Syrian makdous), and braised or steamed in various Chinese dishes.  Eggplant has become popular as a meat-substitute in vegetarian cuisine.

Five nations account for 90% of international eggplant production; China leads the way followed by India, Egypt, Iran, and Turkey.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 lemon, juiced

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground

2 pounds eggplant, cut into 1-inch chunks

3 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon capers, chopped

2 green bell peppers, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

1/4 cup fresh mint leaves

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

2. Whisk together the oil, lemon, salt, and pepper to create the dressing.

3. Toss eggplant with 1/3 cup dressing, and spread onto a baking sheet.  Bake for 30 minutes, tossing occasionally until tender and golden around edges.  Remove from the oven and let the eggplant cool so that it is warm (but not hot enough to melt the feta).

4. Mix feta, garlic, and capers into reserved dressing.

5. In a large bowl, combine baked eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, and mint leaves. Toss with reserved dressing and serve within 2 hours.

Shrimp Tacos

A taco is a traditional Mexican dish consisting of a corn or flour tortilla wrapped around a filling. Tacos are usually filled with a combination of meat, chicken, seafood, cheese and vegetables and served with various salsas and condiments. The word taco means ‘plug’ and is thought to have been coined by Mexican silver miners due to its resemblance to an explosive consisting of gunpowder wrapped in paper.

I grew up in Canada eating store-bought hard shell corn tacos. We used to buy perfectly formed Old El Paso plastic-wrapped shells. We would fill these with ground beef topped with thinly sliced iceberg lettuce, chopped tomatoes, grated cheddar cheese, and a little bit of salsa.

It has been years since I had one of these childhood treats, so Cinco de Mayo was a great opportunity to rediscover and re-imagine the taco.  This unconventional version has the perfect combination of spicy, sweet, and salty flavors.


Serves 4

Ingredients

3 tablespoons mayonnaise (reduced or whole fat)
2 limes
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 jalapeno pepper, finely diced (optional)
1 bunch of cilantro, leaves only, roughly chopped
3/4 pound cooked and peeled shrimp (sliced in half) or other seafood such as crabmeat, lobster, or salmon
12-ounce package coleslaw mix (including green cabbage, red cabbage, and carrots)
1 mango, peeled, cut into thin strips
1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced (optional)
salt (to taste)
12 small tortillas or hard taco shells
Red Rooster chili sauce for serving (optional)

Directions

1. In a small bowl, make dressing by mixing mayonnaise, juice of 1 lime, 1 tablespoon water, sugar, jalapeno pepper, and 1/3 cilantro leaves.
2. Toss shrimp or seafood with 2 tablespoons of dressing until just coated. Set aside.
3. Combine remaining cilantro, coleslaw, mango, red onion, remaining dressing, and salt in a large bowl.  Mix until thoroughly combined.
4. If making soft tacos, warm tortillas in skillet. To serve, spread tortilla or hard taco with chili sauce and fill with seafood and coleslaw mixture. Serve with lime wedges.

Quick Sopaipillas

Sopaipillas are a traditional dessert I discovered while living in the American Southwest.  I first tried them at the El Rialto Restaurant in Las Vegas, New Mexico, a few miles from where I lived.

These treats are sometimes referred to as little pillows, since they are puffed and hollow in the center.  The word means ‘little bread soaked in oil.’  This is a quick version made from tortillas; the original is made from fresh dough.

Fried dough is a treat in many cultures—including donuts in America, puri in India, mandazi in East Africa, and churros in Mexico.  Fried dough is sometimes dusted, dipped, or filled; other times it is served in its unadorned golden splendor.

For me, the hardest thing about frying is making sure the oil is at the correct temperature.  If you don’t have a thermometer, test the oil by dropping in a small amount of dough.  It should produce vigorous bubbles and reach a golden brown color in 60 seconds.  If it browns too quickly or slowly, adjust the temperature accordingly.

Ingredients

4 8-inch wheat tortillas

vegetable oil (preferably canola or corn), for frying

powdered sugar or cocoa (optional)

honey, for serving (optional)

Directions

1.     Heat 1/2 to 1-inch oil in a deep and small pot on medium-high heat.  Let the oil heat for 5-10 minutes before testing it.  The oil should be 350F.

2.     Cut tortillas into wedges or strips.

3.     Fry tortillas pieces in batches for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, flipping once.  Drain on a plate lined with paper towels. 

4.     Dust with powered sugar or cocoa.

5.     Drizzle or dip into honey to serve.

Irish Soda Bread

Like many holidays with a religious origin, St. Patrick’s Day has become a secular observance in much of the United States.  The day celebrates one of the most recognized patron saints of Ireland who brought Christianity to the island in the 5^th century.  He is also credited with banishing snakes from the country, though scientific evidence suggests there were no snakes in post-glacial Ireland.

While it has not taken on the commercialism associated with Christmas, Valentine’s Day, and Halloween, this holiday is often associated with bacchanalian revelry.  On this night, Irish pubs and other watering holes teem with some of the 36 million Americans that claim Irish ancestry (and many others who make no such claims!) decked out in green shamrocks, clothing, accessories, and face paint.  While I tend to avoid the crowds on this night, I decided to observe the occasion by baking soda bread—a treat commonly made by North Americans on St. Patrick’s Day.

Traditionalists complain that modern versions hardly resemble the original recipe, which was limited to flour, baking soda, salt, and buttermilk.  My formula includes a few enhancements—caraway seeds, currants, egg, and a touch of sugar—but is restrained in comparison to some cake-like creations.  An online search revealed soda bread recipes with chocolate, butter, orange zest, pastry flour, and loads of sugar; these decadent items sound more like components of French pastries than the baked goods of the formerly poverty-stricken Irish.  One disparaging online testimonial scoffed at the notion of orange zest in soda bread, reminding the audience that oranges were a rare treat only given to children at Christmas.

Thankfully, we live in less austere times and so we can enjoy soda bread (and oranges) more than once a year.

Serves 8-12

Ingredients
4 cups unbleached all-purpose
4 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon caraway seeds

1 cup dried currants or raisins
2 cups buttermilk
1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

2. In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking soda, salt, caraway seeds, and currants/raisins.

3. In a small bowl, beat the buttermilk and egg together.

4. Using a wooden spoon, add the wet ingredients to the dry ones.  Knead the dough to incorporate all the ingredients and add additional buttermilk (in one tablespoon increments) if needed.  Do not knead the dough too much.  The dough should be rough and craggy; it will not be smooth like dough that contains butter and more eggs.

5. Shape loaf into a ball and flatten slightly.  Place it on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

6. Score the loaf with an X that comes almost to the edge of the loaf.  The cut should be about 1/4 inch deep.

7. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean. When it is done, tapping the loaf will produce a hollow sound.

8. Cool on a baking rack for 5-10 minutes.  Serve warm or toasted with butter, jam, or honey.

9. To freeze, cover with saran wrap and place in an airtight container for up to 2 months.