Treat a Week Recipes

Pistachio Cranberry Biscotti

2011-12-31T21:38:00.001-05:00

Biscotti are twice-baked cookies that originated in the Italian town of Prato. They are sometimes referred to as biscotti di Prato or Prato biscuits. The name derives from the Medieval Latin word biscoctus, meaning twice-baked. Through French, the word found its way to English as biscuit which now refers to a variety of baked goods including sweet cookies, savory crackers, and small soft breads.

Historically, double baking made the cookies very dry and therefore less perishable than other foods. They were especially valuable for long journeys and during times of war. In that way, they are similar to the famously dry Anzac biscuits sent by Antipodean families to young men fighting in Europe during World War I.

Biscotti are a type of cantuccini, a generic term for a variety of twice-baked cookies. Traditionally, biscotti were made only with almonds, pine nuts, eggs, sugar, and flour. In contrast, cantuccini may include leavening agents, fats, spices, and other types of nuts. Outside Italy, the terms cantuccini and biscotti are often conflated. Within Italy, the term cantuccini is most often used in Tuscany to refer to almond biscotti which are generally served with vin santo. Similar cookies are also common in certain parts of Spain.

This is the third biscotti recipe posted on Treat a Week and it contains pistachios (green) and cranberries (red) in honor of Christmas. Guest blogger Sarah posted a lime pistachio biscotti recipe in 2008. That same year I posted what I referred to as a peanut biscotti, which I now realize was a misnomer since it was not double baked.

Ingredients

1 3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 cup light olive oil (do not use regular olive oil as it will impart a strong olive taste)

3/4 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 teaspoon almond extract

2 eggs

1 1/2 cups pistachios (shelled)

1/2 cup dried cranberries

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 300F.

2. In a small bowl, mix flour, salt, and baking powder. Set aside.

3. In a large bowl, using a large wooden spoon, mix olive oil, sugar, vanilla extract, and almond extract.

4. Beat in eggs, one at a time.

5. Slowly add flour mixture until well combined.

6. Add cranberries and pistachios and mix until well incorporated.

7. Divide the sticky dough in half. On a parchment paper lined cookie sheet, form two logs (2-4 inches wide). To better handle the dough, wet hands with cool water. You can also wear latex gloves.

8. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until the dough is light brown. Remove from the oven for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 275F.

9. When slightly cool, cut logs into 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch thick slices. Place cookies on their sides and bake for a further 8-10 minutes or until dry. Cool.

10. Store in an air-tight container for up to 2 weeks.

Pumpkin Swirl Cheesecake

2011-12-03T12:28:00.000-05:00

This dessert is the marriage of two of my favorite Thanksgiving treats – pumpkin pie and cheesecake. It combines evocative pumpkin pie filling and fragrant fall spices with rich and satisfying cheesecake. It’s the perfect antidote for people who have overdosed on traditional desserts.

This is the third pumpkin pie featured on this blog – click here for coconut and cayenne variations. It is also the sixth cheesecake I’ve presented – check out these peach, blueberry, lemon, berry, and almond mascarpone versions.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

Crust
1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted
1/4 cup granulated sugar

Filling
12 ounces cream cheese, softened
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 eggs
1 cup canned pumpkin filling
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 325 F.

2. To make crust, in a large bowl mix graham cracker crumbs, melted butter, and sugar.

3. Using your fingers or the back of a spoon, pack the crumb mixture so that it evenly covers the bottom and sides of a 9-inch metal pie tin.

4. In another large bowl, use an electric mixer to beat cream cheese, sugar, and vanilla.

5. Add eggs, one at a time, and beat until well mixed.

6. Set aside 1/3 of the mixture in a small bowl.

7. Add pumpkin, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves and mix with a wooden spoon.

8. Spoon pumpkin batter into base. Dot with dollops of reserved plain batter.

9. Using a butter knife, gently mix the plain batter into the pumpkin batter to create a swirl effect. Be careful not to disturb the crumb base.

10. Bake for 35-45 minutes, or until the batter has set.

11. Cool at room temperature and refrigerate at least four hours before serving.

Onion and Bacon Tart

2011-10-19T08:54:00.000-04:00

I can no longer remember when or at which restaurant I had an onion tart, but it was divine and I was inspired to make one at home. I regularly serve quiches and frittatas at brunch, and I was excited about adding another entree to my repertoire. Around the same time, I had my first BLT which was made with fakon (vegetarian bacon). This was a new and interesting experience.

These two gastronomic adventures (and some additional research about onion tarts), led me into new culinary territory. As someone who grew up not eating pork for religious reasons, bacon seemed like an easy item to do without. However, my encounter with fakon and widespread bacon mania in the United States caused me to expand my horizon. I was so intrigued by this new ingredient that I decided to try it in this onion tart.

Traditional bacon is cured in brine or dry packed with large amounts of salt; this process often includes additional curing ingredients to accelerate the process and stabilize the meat color. It is then dried or smoked and must be cooked before consumption. American bacon is usually prepared from pork belly; in other parts of the world it is made from side or back cuts of pork. Bacon may also be prepared from other meats including turkey, chicken, goat, cow, or lamb.

Bacon was made in China as early as 1500 BC. It was also popular with the Greeks and Romans. The word comes from the Old High German bacho meaning buttock. The word found its way into Old French as bacun as early as the 14^th century. By the 16^th century it was bacoun in Middle English and referred to all cured pork (not just what we know today as bacon).

While I was not ready to experiment with pork bacon, I had been somewhat underwhelmed by fakon. I decided to compromise with turkey bacon. This product is made from smoked, chopped, and reconstituted turkey thighs. It has a lower fat content and a higher sodium content than pork bacon. It looks and smells like bacon and can be prepared by pan-frying. Because of the lower fat content it does not crisp up in the same way as the pork version. Bacon aficionados maintain that it does not taste like pork bacon, but for the uninitiated, it was a reasonable substitute and a flavorful addition to this tart.

Ingredients

4 to 6 ounces pork bacon, turkey bacon, or fakon

1 to 2 tablespoons butter or olive oil

20 ounces yellow onion

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/2 to 1 red pepper, diced

6 ounces sliced button mushrooms

3 eggs, lightly beaten

6 ounces evaporated milk

1/2 cup sour cream (light sour cream may be substituted)

1 package dry onion soup mix

1 1/2 cups Monterrey or Pepper Jack cheese

1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt

1/2 to 1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground

1 to 2 teaspoons red chilli flakes (optional)

1 pie crust (homemade or store bought) (optional)

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 375F.

2. In a medium saucepan, cook bacon until crispy. For turkey bacon use low heat to prevent bacon from burning. Drain on paper towels. Set aside to cool. Dice bacon.

3. In a large saucepan on medium high heat, sauté onions in butter or olive oil. After 10 minutes, add 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon sugar. Continue to sauté until onions turn lightly brown. Set aside to cool.

4. In the medium saucepan used for bacon, sauté red pepper and mushrooms in bacon grease on medium heat until soft, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

5. To the saucepan with carmelized onions, add bacon, red peppers and mushrooms. Mix well.

6. Then add eggs, evaporated milk, sour cream, soup mix, cheese, salt, pepper and chilli flakes. Mix well.

7. Pour into pie crust or directly into pie dish. Place on a baking sheet. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool for 10-15 minutes.

8. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold.

Brigadeiros (Brazilian Truffles)

2011-08-31T23:15:00.001-04:00

Today I’m featuring my first dish from Brazil, in honor of that nation’s Independence Day. One hundred and eighty-nine years Pedro, the eldest son of then Portuguese King João VI, declared freedom from Portugal. This happened on September 7, 1822 after 322 years of Portuguese rule. Pedro went on to declare himself Emperor of Brazil and was later briefly King of Portugal before abdicating in favor of his seven year old daughter.

Interestingly, these chocolate truffles also have a link to politics. They are named after Eduardo Gomes, a brigadier in the Brazilian air force who twice ran unsuccessful for the presidency of Brazil. Despite his political failure, Gomes was popular enough that this truffle was named after him.

Brigadeiros are popular at children’s birthday parties and other celebratory events.

Makes 18 truffles

Ingredients
1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk
1 tablespoon corn syrup
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 tablespoons cocoa, sifted or powdered hot chocolate
finely shredded coconut, finely chopped slivered almonds, colored sanding sugar, sprinkles or other garnish (optional)

Directions
1. In a heavy bottomed pan, heat the first three ingredients over medium heat. Using a heat proof spatula, stir the mixture continuously to prevent it from burning at the bottom of the pan. Some burning may still occur; if it does, do not scrape the burned layer into your mixture.
2. Bring the mixture to a boil and immediately reduce the heat to low. Add cocoa and continue mixing well. Sifted cocoa is more likely to blend in without creating lumps. If you’re feeling unmotivated to sift, un-sifted cocoa or powdered hot chocolate mixture may be used.
3. Stir the mixture for 8-10 minutes until it thickens and pulls away from pan. It should be a dense fudgy batter.
4. Pour into a bowl and allow to cool to room temperature. Then place in the fridge for 4-12 hours.
5. Grease your hands with butter or cooking spray and roll the batter into truffles.
6. If the batter is soft, place these in the fridge to harden.
7. If desired, roll the truffles in a coating of your choice. This will help to keep softer pieces in better shape.
8. Depending on consistency, place in the fridge or freezer to harden before serving.

Malaysian Fish Curry

2011-08-01T22:08:00.000-04:00

My friend Preeta was recently in town and, as we had done many times in many cities, we cooked a meal together. She rarely uses a recipe and all her food comes out tasting wonderful. This fish curry was no exception. I decided to attempt to re-create that delicious meal. Even though this version tasted different, it was flavorsome.

I’ve used the term ‘curry’ to describe several dishes on this site. The word is an Anglicization of the Tamil word kari which means ‘sauce’. In old Tamil, kari meant chewing, eating or biting. Some suggest that the modern spelling was influenced by the Middle English word cury which came from the French word cuire, which meant to cook. An early surviving document from this time is the 14th century cookbook titled Forme of Cury.

The term kari was meant to describe vegetables in a sauce served with rice, but was applied by Europeans to describe a large number of such dishes throughout Asia. Variations of this term (such as kori and kerrie) are now used in French, Swedish, Italian, Dutch, Spanish, Finnish and German.

In Britain, curry is the generic term used to describe South Asian entrees which are widely consumed throughout the country. One of the earliest British curry recipes appeared in the Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy (1747). Curries became popular during British colonialism and the subsequent migration from South Asia to Britain. Today curry is widely considered an integral part of British cuisine and experimentations with curry have resulted in chicken tikka masala and Coronation chicken.

Serves 4 people

Ingredients
3 tablespoons olive oil
5 shallots, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
3 tomatoes, finely chopped
1/2 to 1 lb green beans, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 tablespoons Thai red curry paste
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1/2 to 1 tablespoon brown sugar
7 ounces coconut milk
1 1/2 lb mild white fish filets (such as tilapia)

Directions
1. In a saucepan, sauté shallots and ginger in olive oil for 4 minutes.
2. Add garlic, tomatoes and green beans. Continue sautéing for 3 minutes.
3. Add curry paste and continue sautéing for 3 minutes.
4. Add fish sauce, brown sugar and coconut milk. Stir well and immediately add fish.
5. Sauté fish for 5-7 minutes until cooked.
6. Serve with rice.

Chocolate Tiffin (Fridge Cake)

2011-06-26T00:25:00.000-04:00

The last time I was in England I had lunch at Pret a Manger and finished it with a ‘Choc Bar’, a British treat often referred to as fridge cake or chocolate concrete. Interestingly, this confection is also known as tiffin, a British Indian word used to describe a snack, light meal, or packed lunch.

Tiffin is usually a combination of dried fruit, cookie pieces, nuts, and chocolate. Although it is virtually unknown in North America, Cadbury’s makes a tiffin chocolate bar.

Tiffin is the perfect treat for summer since it requires no baking. It is also an excellent way to use neglected items in your pantry. This recipe helped me to reduce stores of dried fruit, agave syrup, and pecans that we had purchased in bulk quantities during a short-lived dalliance with Costco.

Ingredients
5 ounces graham crackers (9 double crackers) or digestive biscuits, broken into small pieces (not crumbs)
5 ounces whole dried peaches (approximately 5), chopped into small pieces
1 cup pecans, chopped
1/2 cup unsalted butter (1 stick)
1 1/2 cups bittersweet chocolate chips
1/4 cup agave syrup (can substitute corn syrup, honey or golden syrup)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
cocoa (for dusting, optional)

Directions
1. Line a 8 x 8-inch baking pan with plastic wrap.
2. In a large bowl, mix graham crackers, peaches and pecans. Set aside.
3. In a large pot over low heat, melt butter, chocolate chips, agave syrup and vanilla extract.
4. Add dry ingredients to chocolate and mix well.
5. Transfer to a baking pan and pat down with the back of a spoon.
6. Cool in the refrigerator for 6 hours or overnight.
7. To serve either unmold and dust with cocoa or cut into individual squares in the pan and serve each slice with a dusting of cocoa.

Black Forest Cake

2011-06-09T23:37:00.005-04:00

Black Forest Cake is the English name for Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (literally “Black Forest cherry torte”). The cake is named after a key ingredient – Kirschwasser (literally “cherry water”), a colorless fruit brandy which is double distilled from whole sour Morello cherries. The brandy is produced in the Black Forest region of southwestern Germany. The liqueur is a critical ingredient in this recipe; in Germany the cake cannot be marketed as Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte without containing Kirschwasser.

The origin of Black Forest Cake is the subject of much discussion. Some claim the confection was created in the 16th century. More recently, two men claimed it as their own. Pastry chef Josef Keller asserted that he invented the cake in 1915 at Café Agner in what is now a suburb of Bonn. A conflicting story is that it was created in 1930 by Erwin Hildenbrand at Café Walz in Tübingen. The cake is first mentioned in writing in 1934; at the time it was particularly associated with Berlin.

Since this cake is fairly elaborate and rich, I decorated it with simple whipped cream instead of making a rich buttercream frosting.

Apparently, National Black Forest Cake Day is March 28, but I decided to post this recipe now rather than depriving you of it for another nine months.

Ingredients
Cake
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cocoa
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 ounces unsweetened baking chocolate
3/4 cup unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks), at room temperature
1 1/3 cups buttermilk
1/2 cup milk
2 cups white granulated sugar
2 eggs
5 teaspoons vanilla extract

Sugar Syrup
2 cups white granulated sugar
1 cup water
1/2 cup Kirsch

Filling
2 15-ounce cans pitted cherries in syrup
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 cup Kirsch

Frosting
1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream
chocolate shavings, for garnish
fresh or Maraschino cherries, for garnish

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350F. Grease and flour two 9-inch baking pans.
2. In a large bowl mix flour, cocoa, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Set aside.
3. Melt baking chocolate and 1/2 stick of butter together and set aside. Add milk to buttermilk and set aside.
4. In a large bowl beat remaining stick of butter and sugar together until fluffy.
5. Reduce beater to low and mix in eggs and vanilla.
6. Continue to beat and alternate additions of flour mixture and milk mixture until batter is well mixed.
7. Divide batter between pans and bake for 30-40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Be careful not to overbake.
8. Remove cakes and cool at room temperature. Place cakes in the refrigerator overnight. In the morning, use a long serrated knife to gently cut each cake horizontally into two layers. Separate layers with wax paper and put back into the fridge.
9. To make the sugar syrup, in a small saucepan bring sugar and water to a boil and stir until sugar dissolves. Cook for a further 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Mix in Kirsch and set aside.
10. To make filling, in another saucepan bring pitted cherries to a boil in their syrup. In a small bowl dissolve cornstarch in Kirsch and add to the warm cherries. Whisk mixture for 2 minutes or until it thickens. Remove from heat.
11. Remove cake layers from the fridge. Brush the freshly cut surface of each layer with 1/4 of the sugar syrup. Allow the liquid to soak in for 30-60 minutes.
12. To assemble, place a cake layer on the cake plate with the cut surface facing up. Cover with 1/3 of the filling (about 1 cup) and top with another cake layer with the cut surface facing up. Repeat with filling and third cake layer also cut surface facing up. Repeat with remaining filling and place fourth and final layer with the cut surface down (so that baked surface is facing up).
13. To make frosting, whip cream on high speed and spread evenly over the top and sides of the cake. Garnish with chocolate shavings, fresh cherries or anything else you fancy.

Mexican Hot Chocolate

2011-05-11T22:08:00.007-04:00

We had friends over a couple of weeks ago to celebrate the Mexican holiday of Cinco de Mayo which has become an increasingly popular occasion in the United States. As I’ve described previously on this blog, this is a holiday I regularly celebrate.

At our dinner party, we served quesadillas, guacamole, green salad, Mexican chicken salad, and Spanish rice. For dessert we fried churros, Mexican doughnuts that are traditionally served with a spicy hot chocolate. I decided to make this sweet beverage for the first time.

Hot chocolate originated over 2,000 years ago with the Mayan culture which made a cold chocolate drink from cocoa seed paste, water, cornmeal, chilli, and other ingredients. When the Aztecs gained control over Mesoamerica, they created a bitter and frothy version that also included water, vanilla, and achiote seeds. Xocolatl, the Aztec word for this drink, is the likely origin of our word ‘chocolate’. In Aztec culture, chocolate had medicinal properties, sacred uses, and divine associations.

During the Spanish colonization of Mexico in the 16th century, xocolatl became a favorite of the conquistadors. Later it was introduced into the court of Charles V and became a popular drink among Spanish nobility and the European elite. By this time it was sometimes served hot; the Europeans removed the chilli and added cane sugar, cinnamon, and other spices.

At this time, drinking chocolate was the only form in which chocolate was consumed. In the 19th century, the Dutch created a press to separate cocoa butter from cocoa seeds. This allowed for the creation of solid chocolate which led to the manufacture of bar chocolate. The world has never been the same since!

This hot chocolate recipe uses a variety of spices to provide a rich and complex palette of flavors. Cornstarch thickens the mixture and approximates the consistency of the hot chocolate served in Spain and Mexico with churros.

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients
5 or 6 cups milk
2/3 cup brown sugar (packed)
6-8 tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in a little water (optional)
3/4 teaspoon cardamom
1/2 teaspoon cloves
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon crushed cayenne or other chilli powder
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
cinnamon sticks (optional, for garnish)

Directions
1. In a large saucepan or pot, heat first eight ingredients over medium heat. Stir until sugar dissolves. Do not boil and be careful that milk does not burn on the bottom of the pot.
2. Once the sugar has melted, remove from heat and steep spices for 30 minutes.
3. Return mixture to heat and simmer. Add cocoa and vanilla and stir vigorously until cocoa has dissolved.
4. Decant into mugs. Garnish with cinnamon sticks.

Cracked Wheat Pudding (Lapsi)

2011-03-31T07:20:00.008-04:00

Lapsi is a sweet North Indian pudding or porridge similar to the semolina pudding (siro or sooji halwa) I featured previously on this blog. It seems to be most common in Gujarat but is also made in nearby Rajasthan and Maharashtra.

Lapsi is often prepared for Divali and other auspicious events such as birthdays, anniversaries, when opening a new business, or moving into a new home. In Hinduism, it is also made as prasad (Sanskrit for gracious gift), a religious offering to a deity which is then distributed and consumed.

Broken wheat is not refined, and as such maintains the nutrients that are present in whole wheat. It is a complex carbohydrate so particularly suitable for those with diabetes.

There is also a savory lapsi made with spices, chillis, and vegetables which I have never tried.

Serves 12-16

Ingredients
10 ounces unsalted butter ( 2 1/2 sticks)
2lb cracked wheat (also known as dalia, crushed raw wholewheat berry, broken wheat, bulgar)
1 cup fine sweetened dessicated coconut (if you can only find shredded coconut, pulse in a food processor until fine)
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
4 tablespoons golden raisins
8-11 cups water
1/8 teaspoon orange color powder
3 pinches saffron
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 teaspoon cardamom
1 1/2 teaspoons nutmeg
slivered almonds and/or chopped pistachios, for garnish

Directions
1. In a large pot, melt butter. Saute cracked wheat and coconut over medium heat for 15-20 minutes or until fragrant. Do not increase heat as wheat may burn and become bitter.
2. Add fennel seeds and raisins and saute for a further two minutes.
3. Remove from the heat and add 8 cups of water. Be careful as the hot cracked wheat might splatter.
4. Add orange color and saffron and mix well. Cover pot and return to medium-low heat for 20 minutes.
5. Taste the lapsi to see if it has cooked. It should be neither chewy or mushy. If uncooked, add 1 or 2 cups of water and cover. Cook for 10 more minutes.
6. Again taste the lapsi. If it has not cooked, add 1/2 to 1 cup water and cover. Lower the heat if necessary. Cook for 5 minutes. Repeat until the lapsi is cooked.
7. Add sugar, cardamom and nutmeg. Note that lapsi will not cook further once sugar is added.
8. Garnish with almonds and pistachios and serve warm.
9. Lapsi can be stored in the refrigerator for one week or in the freezer for three months. To defrost leave in the fridge overnight. To reheat, add a little water and microwave in a covered dish or heat on the stovetop.

Sour Cherry Shortbread Hearts

2011-02-24T22:45:00.004-05:00

I had planned on making sugar cookies for Valentine’s Day. However, the thought of dirtying my countertops, rolling out dough, baking multiple batches, and decorating the cookies with icing, tipped me towards a simpler solution. I just wanted heart-shaped cookies without the fuss, so I adapted a Martha Stewart shortbread recipe I had encountered several years ago.

I've loved shortbread for as long as I can remember. As a child, I coveted Walkers shortbread fingers in the red tartan box. Later, I baked shortbread in the form of petticoat tails and rounds. I also loved my mother’s nankhatai, a ‘Gujarati shortbread’ that contains cardamom and semolina. Here is a pistachio version and a chocolate swirl version. And here is a favorite shortbread recipe I made for Hanukkah.

Shortbread is a Scottish treat traditionally made with one part sugar, two parts butter, and three parts flour. The modifier ‘short’ is an archaic synonym for crumbly; which is due to the high butter content. This is also the origin of the word shortening. Shortbread is baked at a low temperature to avoid browning.

The use of powdered sugar instead of granulated white sugar contributes to the incredibly delicate, melt-in-your-mouth quality of these cookies. This recipe makes just enough hearts for one or two people to indulge and it requires very little cleanup.

Makes 14 cookies

Ingredients
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3/4 cup powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 drops red food coloring (optional)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup dried sour cherries or other dried fruit, finely chopped

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 325F.
2. In a large bowl, mix butter and powdered sugar with a wooden spoon. Add vanilla and food coloring and mix well.
3. Add salt and flour and mix until combined. Fold in cherries and mix well.
4. Transfer dough into a 9-inch square, ungreased baking pan. Pat dough with fingers until it is evenly distributed in the pan. Bake for 20 minutes or until shortbread turns brown at the edges.
5. Allow to cool for 20 minutes. Then cut out cookies using a 2-inch heart cookie cutter. The shortbread is very delicate. Use a sharp knife to gently trim stray cherries from cookie. Use a smaller cookie cutter for trimmings.
6. Store cookies and trimmings in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Noodle Kugel

2011-01-15T22:20:00.008-05:00

Noodle kugel is an Ashkenazi Jewish casserole usually served as a side dish or a dessert. It is often prepared for the Sabbath and holidays.

Kugels were originally savory cakes made with flour. Eight hundred years ago, the flour was replaced with noodles or farfel; dairy products were added to create a custard-like consistency. More recent versions may contain raisins and cinnamon.

Kugel comes from the German word ball, since the dish was originally baked in a round pan. Contemporary kugels are most commonly baked in square or rectangular dishes.

Serves 12-16

Ingredients
12 ounces egg noodles
6 eggs
16 ounces small curd cottage cheese
4 ounces cream cheese
8 ounces sour cream
3/4 cup unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks), melted
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 or 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and diced
1/2 cup golden raisins (optional)
1 cup corn flake crumbs
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon

Directions
1. Cook noodles according to instructions on packet. Drain and rinse with cold water.
2. In a large bowl beat eggs and add cottage cheese, cream cheese, sour cream, 1/2 cup butter, granulated sugar and vanilla. Beat well.
3. Gently fold in noodles, apples and raisins.
4. Pour into a greased 9 x 13 Pyrex dish.
5. In a small bowl mix corn flake crumbs, brown sugar and cinnamon. Add 1/4 cup melted butter and mix well. Sprinkle mixture on top of kugel.
6. Bake at 350F in a preheated oven for 75-90 minutes or until the topping is a rich golden brown.
7. Cool at room temp for 15 minutes. Serve warm.

Peppermint Brownies

2010-12-19T12:23:00.003-05:00

One of the best things about Christmas is that it’s associated with some of my favorite flavors and tastes – gingerbread, orange, chestnut, and peppermint. Last weekend I was craving Killer Brownies but wanted to make them seasonal, so I created a holiday version infused with peppermint. This is a combination I’ve tried once before – check out my Pepppermint Perfection Nanaimo Bars.

Peppermint is prized for its leaves and stems which are used to flavor and scent tea, candies, chocolates, chewing gum, cosmetics, and toiletries. Peppermint has a long tradition of medicinal use. It has been shown to repel insects, enhance memory, treat headaches, relieve skin irritation, act as a decongestant, relax muscles, kill bacteria and viruses, and mitigate digestive disorders.

The plant is indigenous to Europe and Asia and is a sterile hybrid of watermint and spearmint. It has been widely cultivated in the New World and is now considered invasive in Australia, New Zealand, Galapagos Islands and the United States.

Makes 48 squares

Ingredients
6 ounces peppermint candy canes
1 lb unsalted butter (4 sticks)
33 ounces semi-sweet chocolate chips
7 large eggs
2 cups granulated sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon peppermint extract
1 1/3 cup unbleached flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt

Directions
1. Unwrap and break candy canes into 1-inch pieces. Crush with a mortar and pestle. Alternately, lay pieces flat in a large Ziplock bag and use rolling pin or wine bottle to crush. The goal is to break candy canes into smaller pieces (1/8-inch in length) and not to crush into a powder. Set aside.
2. Butter and flour a 3/4 to 1-inch deep 12 x 18 inch baking sheet. Preheat oven to 350F.
3. In a medium pan over lowest heat, melt butter and 12 ounces chocolate chips. Mix thoroughly and set aside to cool slightly.
4. In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs (with a fork, do not use an electric beater), then add sugar, vanilla, and half the peppermint extract. Add chocolate mixture and mix well using a spatula. Allow to cool to room temperature.
5. In a small bowl mix all but 2 tablespoons of flour, baking powder and salt. Using a spatula, fold flour mixture into the chocolate mixture.
6. Toss 3 ounces crushed candy canes and 12 ounces of chocolate chips in reserved 2 tablespoons of flour. Fold these into the brownie batter with a spatula.
7. Pour batter into the baking sheet and bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Halfway through the baking, remove baking sheet and drop on countertop or floor several times to remove air bubbles. Be careful not to overbake these brownies – they should be moist and chewy (not cakey).
8. When brownies have cooled to room temperature, melt remaining 9 ounces of chocolate chips in microwave. Mix in remaining 1/2 tablespoon peppermint extract. Using a knife, spread thinly on baked brownies. Immediately garnish with remaining 3 ounces of crushed candy canes.
9. Cool to room temperature and refrigerate overnight. Using a pizza cutter or knife, cut into squares.
10. In an airtight container, brownies will last in the refrigerator for two weeks. To freeze, wrap individually in plastic wrap and store in an airtight container for up to six months.

Laura's Latkes

2010-11-23T22:57:00.007-05:00

This year marks my fifth Hanukkah celebration with my fiancé’s family. In anticipation, I’m sharing his mother’s latke recipe which is the culinary highlight of the holiday. Latkes are potato pancakes common to the cuisines of Eastern, Central and Northern Europe. Similar creations can be found in Persian, Indian and Korean cuisine. Latkes are traditionally eaten by Ashkenazi Jews during Hanukkah.

Many dishes associated with Hanukkah are fried in oil since the miracle of the holiday involved oil. According to tradition, the Maccabean rededication of the Second Temple in Jerusalem was celebrated with an eight day ceremony. The observance required that a menorah be continuously lit, but there was only enough oil for one night because the Temple had been desecrated. Miraculously, the oil lasted for eight days.

Other traditional dishes are doughnuts (especially sufganiyot), fritters, and cheese. For another Hanukkah recipe, check out my shortbread cookies.

Ingredients
3 Yukon Gold potatoes, shredded or grated (not mashed)
3 red potatoes, shredded or grated (not mashed)
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 eggs
1/2 cup matzo meal
1 teaspoon salt
peanut oil, for frying

Directions
1. Take 1 cup of the shredded Yukon potatoes and further shred in a food processor. This will aid in binding the latkes. Add it back to the potato mixture.
2. In a big bowl, mix all the ingredients (except oil) with your hands. Let the mixture sit for 10 minutes.
3. Heat a skillet with oil 1/2-inch deep over medium high. The oil should not be smoking. Hot oil sears the latke and prevents it from absorbing too much additional oil.
4. Drop two tablespoons of potato mixture into the hot oil. Release the mixture so that it forms a latke about 3 inches in diameter. Latkes should be fried for 3-5 minutes on each side until dark golden brown. Flip over and fry the other side as well. Fry 3-5 latkes at a time depending on the size of your skillet.
5. Drain on paper towels to remove some of the oil.
6. Repeat with remaining mixture. Replenish oil as needed.
7. Serve warm with apple sauce and sour cream.

Gram Flour Fudge (Monthar)

2010-10-19T08:07:00.004-04:00

This is one of my favorite Indian mithais (literally ‘sweets’). It seems to be Gujarati in origin since most of my Indian friends have never heard of it. Like so many mithais, its basic ingredients are a combination of flour, sugar, butter and milk. While often too sweet and rich for the Western palate, mithais are widely enjoyed by South Asians in the homeland and diaspora.

They are traditionally eaten on special occasions, and are not really equivalent to daily desserts which have become a modern custom in North America. Often, families will make platters of various kinds of mithais and send them to neighbors and friends in anticipation of Divali, Eid or other festive occasions.

Growing up in Calgary, we had a family friend who was renowned for her monthar. She would make it in great slabs studded with nuts and saffron threads. While I was away at college and graduate school, this was a favorite treat for me to pick up on my trips home. I’d usually freeze the whole batch, and defrost one square at a time.

Ingredients
2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup water
1/4 teaspoon orange food color powder
1 lb unsalted butter (4 sticks)
1lb gram flour (also called besan or chickpea flour)
1 cup evaporated milk
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
3/4 teaspoon cardamom
1/2 teaspoon saffron
1/2 cup almonds and pistachios, chopped (optional)

Directions
1. Boil sugar, water and food color until 240F on a candy thermometer. It can also be tested by dropping a small amount on a plate. It will form a soft ball when it is at the right temperature.
2. In a large saucepan, heat the butter and using a spoon carefully skim off as much of the foam as possible. Then decant the butter, discarding the milk solids that have settled on the bottom of the pan. Return butter to pan.
3. On medium heat, add flour and sauté until golden brown. This can take 10-20 minutes so be patient.
4. Increase the heat slightly and slowly add evaporated milk, stirring constantly.
5. Add the syrup mixture and remove from heat. Add nutmeg, cardamom and saffron and stir well.
6. Allow the mixture to cool for 5 minutes, and then stir the mixture until it thickens.
7. Spread in a 9 x 9 inch pan and sprinkle with nuts. Using the back of a spoon, pat down gently to ensure the nuts are properly attached.
8. When cool, cut into 1 inch squares.
9. Store in the refrigerator for 3 weeks or the freezer for 3 months.

Peach Cheesecake

2010-09-29T18:36:00.000-04:00

Peaches are one of my favorite summer fruits. Although they originated in China, Europeans originally thought the peach tree was from Persia which explains the scientific name Prunus persica which later became ‘peach’. From China the peach was taken to India and Western Asia, then by Alexander the Great to Persia. After that, it travelled to the Americas, Northern Europe and finally to the North American colonies in the 17th century.

Interestingly, peaches and nectarines are different cultivars of the same species. Those with white flesh are sweeter and more prized in East Asia; the more acidic, yellow-flesh cultivars are popular in Europe and North America. Peaches are closely related to plums, cherries, apricots and almonds; and within the larger Rosaceae family to roses, apples, pears, strawberries and raspberries.

Although California produces 65% of the peaches in the United States, in my mind the fruit is most closely associated with Georgia, the ‘Peach State’. Over the summer, when we were invited to dinner at the home of a friend originally from Georgia, I used the opportunity to create this peach dessert.

Serves 6

Ingredients

Crust
1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted
1/4 cup white sugar

Filling
12 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 cup white sugar
2 eggs
2 tablespoons peach or apricot jam/preserve
1-2 peaches, thinly sliced

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 300 F.
2. To make crust, in a large bowl mix graham cracker crumbs, melted butter and sugar.
3. Using your fingers or the back of a spoon, pack the crumb mixture so that it evenly covers the bottom and sides of a 9-inch metal pie tin.
4. To make filling, in another large bowl beat cream cheese, sugar and eggs until smooth. Pour into the pan and bake for 40 minutes or until the surface is very light brown. Let the cheesecake cool for 30-60 minutes at room temperature.
5. Once cooled, gently spread jam/preserve on top of the cheesecake. Arrange peach slices on top. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Tad's Fire Island Salad Nicoise

2010-09-06T18:00:00.006-04:00

Last weekend we visited our friend Tad in Fire Island – a magical, summer resort located two hours from New York City. Fire Island is one of several outer barrier islands located on the south shore of Long Island. This sliver of land is 50 kilometers long and between 160-400 meters wide. There are several communities on the island, and a number of them have no roads or ban vehicular traffic during the summer months. The white, sandy beach is the primary attraction, though there is also an active nightlife. There are few hotels on the island, so the vast majority of people stay in private homes that are commonly rented out for the summer.

On Sunday, Tad made one of his signature dishes for lunch – a summery, fresh, salad nicoise. This is the second recipe on my blog inspired by the French Mediterranean classic. For details on its origins see my earlier post.

Serves 3-6

Ingredients
Salad dressing
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1-2 cloves garlic, finely minced
zest of 1 lemon, finely grated
1 teaspoon salt
pepper to taste

Salad
12-16 ounces tuna steak
10 ounces mixed greens
1-2 large tomatoes, sliced into sixths
1/8-1/4 lb pitted black olives
3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced into quarters (optional)
4-8 small potatoes, unpeeled, roasted and cooled, sliced into quarters
8-10 anchovy slices (optional)
salt and pepper, to taste

Directions
1. Make the salad dressing in a glass jar. Fill with ingredients and shake until well combined. Set aside.
2. Grill the tuna steaks for 2-3 minutes on each side (for rare) and 3-4 minutes on each side (for medium) until the outside is white in color. Remove from heat and cut into 1-inch cubes.
3. On an oblong or rectangular platter, arrange a bed of heaped greens. Spread tomatoes and olives over greens and top with tuna pieces. Arrange eggs, potatoes and anchovies around the perimeter of platter.
4. Dress with salt, pepper and salad dressing.

Blueberry Cheesecake Pudding

2010-07-28T22:01:00.007-04:00

I went to a farmer’s market earlier this summer and bought four pints of locally grown blueberries. I no longer have the time to wax lyrical about blueberries but you can read all about them on a previous post.

I had originally planned on making a pie, but then remembered that my friend Joe had long ago given me a blueberry recipe from his grandmother. This dessert is an adaptation of that recipe. Her version uses amaretto and vanilla wafers. I’ve replaced those ingredients, reduced the sugar, and given a few healthier ingredient options.

I took this to a dinner party a few weeks ago and it was a great hit. Be warned – ten hungry New Yorkers did not make much of a dent in this massive dish, but it's ideal for parties, potlucks and barbeques.

14-18 servings

Ingredients
2 cups graham cracker crumbs
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
2 eggs
8 ounces cream cheese (reduced fat acceptable), at room temperature
1 teaspoon lemon or vanilla extract
2 packages of vanilla instant pudding mix
3 cups of milk (low fat or skim acceptable)
1/4 cup cornstarch
4 to 5 cups blueberries (fresh or thawed frozen)

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350F.
2. Combine graham cracker crumbs, 1/2 cup sugar and butter and press into a greased 13 x 9 deep glass baking dish.
3. Place eggs, cream cheese, 1/2 cup sugar and extract in a bowl and beat until smooth. Pour and spread over crust. Bake for 30 minutes or until cream cheese is set. Remove and cool to room temperature.
4. In a separate bowl, mix both packets of instant pudding with milk and beat for 2 minutes until mixture thickens. Spread over cream cheese and chill.
5. In a large saucepan, combine 1 cup sugar and cornstarch. Add some liquid (water, juice, alcohol) if necessary. Mix in blueberries and cook over medium heat. Stir constantly and gently until mixture thickens and becomes dark. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.
6. Spread over pudding layer and chill overnight.
7. Scoop out portions with a large spoon and serve in a bowl.

Scallop Risotto

2010-06-26T13:12:00.005-04:00

North Americans often complain about how arduous it is to make risotto. “All that stirring!” is a common refrain I hear. In our hectic modern lives, I think we’ve lost sight of the pleasures that can be derived from preparing food.

Many of us do not even realize that the things we eat now were much harder to make before modern innovation. For example, Irish or steel-cut oats require 15-30 minutes to prepare instead of the 2 minutes it takes to make quick oats in the microwave. The same is true for instant rice. Many young people probably consider using cake mixes and frozen cookie batter as authentic baking, not realizing that traditionally all these things were made from scratch.

In this context, stirring risotto for 20 minutes can seem like a lifetime. However, having recently served it, I was reminded that it really is not as difficult as it seems. This scallop risotto is a perfect summer dish. To learn more about scallops see another recipe from last summer; to learn more about risotto see a winter version here.

Ingredients
Risotto
3-4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 to 1 1/2 cups pumpkin flesh, chopped into 1/4 inch pieces (do not use canned pumpkin)
1 cup broccoli florets
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons chopped garlic or garlic paste
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice (about 10 ounces)
1/4 to 1/2 Parmesan cheese, grated

Scallops
Salt, pepper, garlic powder to season
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 to 2lbs scallops

Directions
1. In a medium pot, warm stock until simmering.
2. In a large pot over medium heat, melt butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add pumpkin and sauté for five minutes. Then add broccoli and continue cooking for until five minutes until pumpkin is slightly soft. Set aside.
3. In the same pot, heat olive oil and garlic. Once fragrant, sauté onion until translucent (after 10 minutes).
4. Add Arborio rice and stir until coated with oil.
5. Add 1/2 cup warm broth and stir gently until it is all absorbed. Continue adding spoonfuls of broth and stirring until absorbed.
6. After 15 minutes add pumpkin and broccoli.
7. Continue adding broth until the rice is tender but still al dente. You may have stock remaining.
8. Finish with Parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Cover to keep warm.
9. Pat scallops dry with a paper towel.
10. Season scallops with salt, pepper and garlic powder.
11. In a large skillet on medium high, heat olive oil. Sauté scallops for 2-3 minutes on each side.
12. Plate risotto and top with scallops.

Fruit and Nut Oatmeal Cookies

2010-05-26T17:16:00.006-04:00

After a very busy spring, this weekend I finally had the chance to experiment in the kitchen. I produced another oatmeal cookie recipe for this blog.

To read more about oatmeal, see my first recipe. That one makes dense, crunchy, super sweet, chocolately cookies. This one produces soft, spicy and light treats which contain half the butter!

These cookies are fragrant and flavorful because of the cinnamon and cardamom. Feel free to use any type of dried fruits or nuts, though I would stay away from walnuts which can be a touch bitter.

Makes 30

Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon cardamom
1/2 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup brown sugar, packed
1 cup applesauce
3 cups rolled oats
3/4 cup dried cranberries
3/4 cup dried cherries
3/4 cup pecans, toasted and chopped

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 F.
2. In a small bowl mix flour, baking soda, cinnamon and cardamom.
3. In a large bowl beat butter and sugar for 4 minutes until fluffy.
4. Add applesauce and beat on low speed. Add flour mixture and continue to beat.
5. Add oats, cranberries, cherries and pecans and mix with a spatula.
6. Refrigerate the batter for at least one hour.
7. On a large, ungreased baking sheet drop heaping tablespoons of batter. Flatten with a spoon.
8. Bake for 14-16 minutes or until golden brown. Cool for 5 minutes. Store in an airtight container for up to a week. Can be frozen for up to three months.

Seven Layer Cookies

2010-04-03T12:14:00.009-04:00

My friend Lauren recently told me about a seven layer cookie that she makes, and I was immediately mystified. It turns out it neither has seven layers nor is a cookie; however, it has seven ingredients which I assume were originally put down in layers. The seven layer cookie (also known as ‘magic bars’) belongs to the genre of confections that – like Rice Krispies treats and confetti marshmallow squares – are tooth-achingly sweet, rely heavily on processed ingredients, and are forgiving for amateur cooks. Other hallmarks of this form include no-bake cakes and pies, ambrosia and s'mores. The origin of such recipes is unclear – I suspect it’s a combination of the desire for instant gratification and corporations inventing new ways to market their products.

Seven layer cookies are popular at Christmastime. I also found an eleven layer version that includes dark chocolate chips, miniature marshmallows, toffee chips and dulce de leche. This recipe should not be confused with the more sophisticated Venetian seven layer cookie (often called rainbow cookie) which is a sandwich of three multicolored, almond-flavored sponge cakes separated by apricot jam and covered with chocolate. In contrast to its American namesake, the Italian version is massively labor-intensive so you’re unlikely to see it on this blog anytime soon.

Makes 32 bars

1 stick unsalted butter
2 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs
1 pound semisweet chocolate chips
1 pound butterscotch chips
12 ounces walnuts or pecans, chopped
12 ounces shredded, desiccated coconut (unsweetened if available)
20 ounces sweetened condensed milk (do not use evaporated milk)

1. Preheat oven to 350 F.
2. In a medium bowl, melt butter in the microwave. Mix in graham cracker crumbs, and press mixture along the bottom of a 9 x 13 glass Pyrex dish.
3. Bake crust for 8-10 minutes or until golden. Remove from oven and set aside.
4. In a large bowl use a spatula to mix chocolate chips, butterscotch chips, walnuts and coconut. Pour evenly over crust.
5. Carefully drizzle condensed milk over mixture, making sure to spread evenly.
6. Return to the oven and bake for a further 30-45 minutes or until the top is golden brown and fragrant.
7. Remove from the oven and cool for several hours. Cut into small pieces.
8. Cookies can be stored in the fridge for one month or in the freezer for six months. Frozen cookies are best served slightly reheated in the microwave with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Baked Cod with Roasted Vegetables

2010-03-13T11:33:00.005-05:00

Those of you who read this blog frequently know how much I love to bake. My passion for this method of food preparation is not only based on my predilection for cookies, pies and cakes. Baking also provides a controlled and predictable method of preparation that is conducive to entertaining.

Some dishes are decidedly difficult to make for guests. If you’ve ever tried to prepare risotto for a crowd, you’re familiar with the challenges of “entertaining while stirring”. Of course one can make a dish in advance (a curry, chili or soup for example) but reheating can present its own challenges (overheating or underheating) and it often requires attention soon after your guests have arrived. For a dinner party, one is often preparing several dishes at once and ensuring that all items are at the right temperature just before serving can be a mighty challenge even for an experienced cook.

For all these reasons, I appreciate baked entrees. They come out of the oven hot, require minimal handling, and fill the house with a delicious aroma. Some of my favorite baked entrees include lasagna, frittata, pizza and stuffed vegetables. While all of these make lovely meals, my fiancé and I have been searching for more ‘sophisticated’ baked entrées to serve to dinner guests.

We especially like to serve fish for dinner, but have had less than ideal experiences grilling fish on our George Foreman Grill or searing scallops in a skillet. They have both created fishy smoke in our poorly ventilated Manhattan apartment. Having experimented with a few baked fish recipes, we came up with this one which we recently served to our friends Andrew and Andrew.

Serves 4

1 head of garlic, peeled
1/2 lb carrots, peeled and sliced or baby carrots
1 zucchini, sliced
1 or 2 red peppers, sliced into strips
1 large red onion, peeled and cut into eighths
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
4 cod or hake fillets (approximately 2 lbs total) - you can substitute another light, white fish
salt and pepper, to taste
1 bunch parsley for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 400F.
2. In a 9 x 13 glass baking dish, toss first five ingredients with most of the olive oil.
3. On the middle rack, bake vegetables for 30-40 minutes until slightly roasted.
4. Place fish fillets on top of vegetables and drizzle with remaining olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

5. Return dish to oven for 20-30 more minutes.
6. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately.

Valentine Borscht

2010-02-21T10:35:00.007-05:00

Borscht is a peasant soup popular in Central and Eastern Europe. The word comes from the Slavic word borshchevik which means hogweed, a vegetable once important to the Slavs. Today the defining ingredient in borscht is beet root although there are some versions that do not contain beets. For more information about beets read my post from last year about a summer beet salad.

In the Ukraine, where borscht is likely to have originated, it is the national soup and was sometimes eaten multiple times a day as a main meal. It is also served as the first course of a traditional Polish Christmas meal. In other places, it is generally consumed before the main meal.

There are two key types of borscht – hot and cold. The hot version is often chunky, made with potatoes, vegetables and sometimes beef. The cold version is sometimes strained before serving and thus has a thinner consistency (similar to gazpacho). Variations abound and recipes have been known to include dried mushrooms, parsley, dill, lovage, green onions, basil, beans, pickled apples, plums, cherries, eggplant, olives, prunes, ham, mint, ginger, leeks, tomatoes, bell peppers, tarragon, paprika, oregano and sausage.

Many versions require the addition of an acid to sour the – this can be achieved through the addition of lemon, vinegar or citric acid. Some recipes call for natural fermentation which requires the soup to be made several days in advance. Borscht is often served with sour cream, yogurt, cream or a local dairy equivalent.

In North American borscht is closely associated with Ashkenazi Jewish traditions. The term ‘Borscht Belt’ refers to the swath of summer resorts in upstate New York that were popular with New York City Jews between the 1920s and 1960s.

As a humble and quotidian dish, I’ve never heard of the soup in conjunction with Valentine’s Day. However, it seemed perfect as a bright red starter on a cold winter day. It freezes well but will stain plastic containers so we opted to use one gallon freezer bags.

Serves 10-14

4 tablespoons olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
1 1/2 pound russet potatoes (about 2), peeled, chopped into small cubes
1/2 lb carrots, sliced
small cabbage or half a medium cabbage, thinly chopped
6-8 cups vegetable (or meat-based) broth
15 ounces diced tomatoes
4 large beets, peeled and chopped into small cubes
5 bay leaves
4 tablespoons red wine vinegar (balsamic or other)
1 bunch of dill, finely chopped
salt and pepper
sour cream, for garnish (optional)

1. Heat olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add onions, potatoes, carrots and cabbage. Sauté for 10 minutes.
2. Add broth, tomatoes, beets and bay leaves. Bring soup to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes.
3. Add red wine vinegar and 1/2 dill. Continue cooking for another 15 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.
4. Flavor with salt and pepper to taste. Remove bay leaves.
5. Serve with a dollop of sour cream and remaining dill.

Linzer Muffins

2010-02-06T11:27:00.012-05:00

On a recent trip to London, my friends Teresa and Kaspar took me to Princi, a Milanese bakery in SoHo. After a healthy salad, I stood indecisively over a vast counter of rustic pastries. I opted for a large slice of linzertorte – an almond-flavored cake spread with raspberry jam.

These muffins take their inspiration from linzertorte, a traditional Austro-Hungarian specialty now popular throughout central Europe. The torte is named after the Austrian city of Linz which was founded by the Romans and was famously home to Kepler, Bruckner, Hitler and Wittgenstein.

The earliest recipe for linzertorte dates back to the mid 17th century. Traditionally it consists of three layers – a bottom layer of pastry made largely with ground nuts (usually almonds, sometimes hazelnuts or pecans, and rarely walnuts), a middle layer of jam (traditionally black currant lekvar, though apricot and raspberry are also used), and a topping of dough strips arranged in a lattice pattern.

Linzertorte is especially popular during Christmas. In addition to cakes and muffin, the concept has been extended to cookies which I sometimes make for Christmas and Valentine’s Day. Watch this space for the recipe…

Makes 12 muffins

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup almond meal
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 large egg
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1/2 cup raspberry jam
1/3 to 1/2 cup slivered almonds, untoasted, for garnish
confectioners sugar for dusting (optional)

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 375F. Prepare a muffin pan with foil or paper liners. If using paper liners, spray them with cooking spray.

2. In a medium bowl, mix flour, almond meal, baking powder, salt and cinnamon. Set aside.

3. In another, large bowl, beat an egg. Then add butter and sugar. Mix well. Add milk, lemon zest and almond extract.

4. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and mix until just combined. Do not overmix.

5. Distribute one heaping tablespoon of batter into each liner. Then add a teaspoon (or more) of jam. Fill liners with remaining batter.

6. Sprinkle each muffin with slivered almonds.

7. Bake for 20 minutes or until muffins are golden brown. Remove from the oven and cool muffins in their pan for 10 minutes.

8. These muffins can be served with a dusting of confectioner’s sugar.

Confetti Marshmallow Squares

2010-01-28T09:46:00.009-05:00

These humble treats are evocative of my childhood. While they are fairly common in Canada, I have never seen them here in the United States. In fact, I couldn't even find multicolored mini marshmallows in Manhattan so I bought a couple of bags on my last trip home.

The modern marshmallow was invented in France in the mid-19^th century by whipping together egg whites, sugar, and root sap from the Marshmallow plant (Althaea officinalis). This flowering, perennial herb was originally native to salty marshes in Europe, North Africa and Asia and was valued by the ancient Syrians, Chinese, Arabs and Romans for its medicinal properties. The Egyptians mixed Marshmallow root sap with honey and nuts to produce a treat thought to have been served exclusively to the Pharaoh.

The original process to make marshmallows was labor-intensive and expensive – limiting the market for the confections to the French elite. After technological advances, especially an extrusion process patented by American Alex Doumakes, mass production of marshmallows became possible. Over the years, the recipe has changed dramatically: root sap has been replaced with gelatin; egg whites are obsolete; and various forms of sugar, coloring and flavor have been added.

The average American consumes almost 1/4 pound of marshmallows per year. They are used in a variety of American desserts and snacks including Rice Krispies treats, s’mores, and fluffernutters.

Confetti marshmallow squares are easy to make and ideal for the young, beginner or untalented cook. They are similar to an American confection called 'church windows' which also contains marshmallows and peanut butter as well as chocolate chips, coconut and nuts.

Makes 25 squares

Ingredients
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup smooth peanut butter
1 cup butterscotch chips
8 oz multicolored mini marshmallows

Directions

1. In a medium pot over lowest heat, melt butter and peanut butter. Add butterscotch chips and stir constantly until melted and smooth. The chips may take a while to fully melt but do not increase heat. Alternately, this can be done in a microwave.

2. Once melted, remove the pot from the heat. While cooling, butter a 9 x 9 inch baking pan. Line with wax paper and butter again.

3. Once the pot has cooled enough that you can comfortably touch the bottom, mix in the marshmallows until well coated with sauce. Marshmallows may melt if added to sauce that has not sufficiently cooled.

4. Spread mixture in the baking pan and use the back of a spoon to even out the surface. Place in the fridge for several hours or overnight. Using a sharp knife cut into 25 squares. Store in an airtight container for 2 weeks in the fridge or 3 months in the freezer; separate layers with wax paper to prevent sticking.

Pineapple Carrot Cake

2010-01-09T11:53:00.010-05:00

This is the second carrot cake recipe featured on this site – a follow up to my post on carrot cupcakes which describes the origin of carrots (in Afghanistan) and their use as a sugar substitute in medieval times. Predecessors to modern carrot cake were baked in a piecrust akin to pumpkin pie or steamed like a plum pudding.

Carrot cake experienced a decline in popularity in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. In fact, it was fairly obscure until the second half of the twentieth century. In Britain it was revived by the Ministry of Food, which disseminated the recipe during the food rationing of World War Two. The signature cream cheese frosting is a modern American invention that appeared in the 1960s. Some attribute its newfound popularity to its perceived healthfulness since it contains no butter (which is high in saturated fat and cholesterol) and a significant amount of carrots; others dispute this given its sugar and oil content.

To address some of these concerns, this recipe has slightly less sugar and oil than the original, and is balanced by moist and sweet pineapple. The frosting for this recipe also uses an American Neufchatel which contains less fat than regular cream cheese without compromising the taste. Do not skip the coconut extract as it gives the cake an amazing fragrance. Carrot cake is versatile and you can add many of your favorite ingredients to it. I’ve included pineapple, coconut and walnuts; you could also add raisins, pecans, apples, cocoa powder, dried fruit or currants.

Serves 10-12

Ingredients

Cake:
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon allspice
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
4 large eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3/4 cup vegetable oil (canola or corn)
1lb carrots, grated (about 3 large carrots)
12 ounces crushed pineapple, drained
1/2 cup shredded coconut (optional)
1/2 to 1 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped and toasted (optional)

Frosting:
12 ounces cream cheese (up to 8 ounces can be American Neufchatel cheese (also called farmer’s cheese)), softened
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 cup confectioner’s sugar or to taste
1 teaspoon coconut extract
sprinkles or chopped nuts for garnish (optional)

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 350F. Butter and line two 8-inch round cake pans with parchment. Butter again and flour.

2. In a medium bowl mix flour, baking soda, cinnamon, allspice and salt. Set aside.

3. In a medium bowl, beat sugar and eggs using an electric mixer. Add vanilla and oil and mix well.

4. Add the flour mixture, continuing to beat on low speed.

5. Using a spatula, fold in the carrots, pineapple, coconut and walnuts.

6. Divide batter into cake pans and bake for 30-45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool to room temperature before frosting.

7. To make the frosting, beat together all the ingredients by hand.

8. Unfrosted carrot cake freezes well. Wrap in wax paper, then in saran wrap, and place in an airtight container. Should last 3 to 6 months. The frosting can be kept in an airtight container in the fridge for several weeks or in the freezer for several months.

9. You have several options in terms of presentation. You could individually frost each cake and serve separately. Or you could frost one cake and place the second cake (top-side down) on top and then frost the top and sides. Alternately, you could make half the frosting, frost only one cake, and eat the other cake without frosting (a dusting of confectioner's sugar provides a lovely and light alternate). I recommend eating a frostless cake fresh; frozen cake is best served with cream cheese.

Squash and Blue Cheese Risotto

2009-12-27T00:18:00.025-05:00

Risotto is a rice dish originating in Northern Italy. The rices used to make risotto are characterized by high starch, low amylose and round medium grains – very different from the white rice most commonly consumed in the United States. The most common risotto rices used in Italy are Carnaroli or Vialone, though in American grocery stores Arborio is most more widely available. This is less desirable that the other varieties as it has less starch and is less firm.

To make risotto, first onions or shallots are sautéed in olive oil in a process called soffritto. Then the rice grains are added and coated in oil or butter in a process called tostatura. Hot stock is then added in small quantities while stirring the risotto. The agitation releases starch from the rice grains which forms a thick liquid. The final step is mantecatura when butter/oil and cheese are added and stirred vigorously to create a creamy sauce.

This risotto is adapted from a British recipe. Risottos tend to be mild but this one has strong flavors. The saffron provides fragrance, the squash creaminess, the Gorgonzola some bite, and the pecans a crunchy texture. Many Americans are intimidated by risotto because rumors abound that it must be stirred for several hours. New York Times food critic Mark Bittman dispels this myth.

In Italy risotto is served as a primi piatti (first dish) instead of pasta; secondi piatti (second dishes) generally consist of meat or fish. In America risotto is often served as a main dish, though is sometimes served as an appetizer or side dish.

Serves 6-8 as a main dish

Ingredients
6 cups vegetable or chicken low-sodium stock (do not use bouillon cubes)
1 pinch of saffron
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
3 teaspoons crushed garlic
1 lb squash, peeled, seeded and chopped
3 tablespoons butter
2 cups Arborio or other risotto rice
1 cup dry white wine
8-12 ounces crumbled Gorgonzola cheese (or another mild to medium blue cheese)
1/2 lb toasted pecan halves
salt and pepper to taste
fresh Parmesan cheese (optional)

Directions
1. In a medium pot warm stock until simmering. Add saffron and stir well.
2. In a larger, heavy-bottomed pot on low heat sauté onion in olive oil until soft (about 10 minutes).
3. Add garlic and squash and cook until slightly soft.
4. Add the butter and rice. Stir until the grains are well coated.
5. Add wine and stir until absorbed (about 1 minute).
6. Add 1 cup of warm broth and stir until it has almost been absorbed. Continue adding broth, 1/2 cup at a time and stirring occasionally until absorbed. The process should take about 20 minutes but check the rice after 15 minutes. The grains should be al dente and will continue cooking once removed from the heat.
7. Once the risotto is cooked, stir in the Gorgonzola. Fold in half of the pecans and use the other half to garnish the dish before serving. Add salt, pepper and finely grated Parmesan cheese to taste.

Killer Brownies

2009-12-14T00:40:00.006-05:00

Despite their popularity in the United States and my own personal predilection for them, this is only the second brownie recipe to be featured on this blog. The first was for Valentine’s Day almost two years ago. While these are not a traditional Christmas, Hanukkah, Eid or Kwanzaa recipe, Americans adore saccharine chocolate treats at any time of the year.

Brownies are dense chocolate, cake-like squares. They generally contain a higher proportion of eggs and chocolate and a lower proportion of flour than chocolate cake. They are sometimes frosted, and often made with nuts, chocolate chips, cream cheese, dried fruit or coconut. Most commonly brownies are served at room temperature, but many restaurants serve them warm and topped with ice cream, whipping cream, chocolate sauce and/or chopped nuts. Brownies are similar to the less popular blondies (another favorite); the major difference is that the former is made with chocolate batter.

Brownies were first created in Chicago by a chef at the Palmer House Hotel during the 1893 Columbian Exposition. He created these confections for Bertha Palmer, whose husband Potter owned the hotel. The original recipe, which is still served at the hotel, contains nuts and an apricot glaze. The first published brownie recipe produced a cake-like square and appeared in a Boston cookbook in 1906. A new recipe published the following year more closely resembled today’s confection.

This is one of the most delicious brownies I have tasted. It is based on a recipe by Ina Garten but uses less chocolate, nuts, flour and sugar than her version. Still these are exceedingly decadent.

Makes 48 squares

Ingredients

1 lb unsalted butter (4 sticks)

24 ounces semi-sweet chocolate chips

6 large eggs

2 cups granulated sugar

3 tablespoons instant coffee

2 tablespoons vanilla extract

1 cup unbleached flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups walnut pieces

Directions

1. Butter and flour a 3/4 to 1-inch deep 12 x 18 inch baking sheet. Preheat oven to 350F.

2. In a medium pan over lowest heat, melt butter and 12 ounces chocolate chips. Set aside to cool slightly.

3. In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs (with a fork, do not use an electric beater), then add sugar, coffee and vanilla. Add chocolate mixture and mix well using a spatula. Allow to cool to room temperature.

4. In a small bowl mix all but 2 tablespoons of flour, baking powder and salt. Using the spatula, fold into the chocolate mixture.

5. Toss walnuts and remaining 12 ounces of chocolate chips in reserved 2 tablespoons of flour. Fold these into the brownie batter.

6. Pour batter into the baking sheet and bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Halfway through the baking, remove baking sheet and drop on countertop or floor several times to remove air bubbles. Be careful not to overbake these brownies – they should be moist and chewy not cakey.

7. Cool to room temperature and refrigerate overnight. Using a pizza cutter or knife, cut into squares.

Coconut Pumpkin Pie

2009-11-28T18:12:00.011-05:00

As avid readers of Treat a Week have noted, coconut is one of my favorite ingredients. It has made appearances in curries, cakes and bars among other recipes on his blog. However, I’ve never written about coconuts, so I figured Thanksgiving is as good a time as any.

Coconuts palm trees are thought to have originated in South Asia, though some authorities believe that they developed in northwestern South America. Through the dispersal of coconuts (which serve as seeds) in ocean waters and human cultivation, coconut palms are now found throughout the tropics. They require wet, warm, humid and sunny climates; they also do well in sandy and saline environments. The largest coconut producers in the world are Indonesia, the Philippines, India, Brazil and Thailand.

Several food products are derived from coconuts. Coconut water is the sterile fluid in the cavity of the fruit and is often consumed as a refreshing beverage. Coconut meat, the fleshly part of the nut, can be eaten fresh or dried. The flesh can also be processed with hot water or milk to produce coconut milk. Refrigerated coconut milk separates and the non-liquid portion that rises to the top is coconut cream, which is used primarily in sweet dishes such as piña coladas. Several other culinary products can be produced from coconut palm trees – flower cluster sap can be fermented to produce palm wine, coconut nectar is extracted from young buds, coconut sprout is found in newly germinated coconuts, and heart-of-palm is extracted from the inner core of the tree.

This variation on quintessential pumpkin pie is based on a recipe by my friend Elliot, a former restaurateur in Seattle. I use shredded coconut meat in the crust and coconut cream in the filling, which gives it a rich and tropical flavor. The lime zest adds freshness and another layer of complexity.

Ingredients
Crust:
1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/2 cup finely shredded, desiccated coconut (Asian markets are the best place to find this)
1/3 cup unsalted butter or margarine, melted
1/4 cup granulated sugar
OR
1 prepared graham cracker crust

Filling:
3 eggs, lightly beaten or egg substitute
1 can pumpkin (15 oz)
8 to 12 oz cream of coconut (I use Coco Lopez brand) – make it as rich as you would like
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
zest of one lime

Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 350 F.
2. If you are making a crust, mix graham cracker crumbs, coconut, sugar and butter. Using the back of a spoon or your hands, pat the mixture along the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie dish. I find that a metal dish works best (sometimes the crust gets stuck to a glass dish).
3. In a medium bowl, combine all the filling ingredients. Pour into the piecrust.
4. Bake for 40-60 minutes or until the center is set (should not jiggle when shaken slightly). If the pie starts to brown, reduce the temperature to 275F and bake until set.
5. Cool to room temperature and refrigerate overnight. Serve the next day – chilled or at room temperature. You can decorate it with whipped cream and serve more on the side.

Millet Flour Flatbread (Bajari Rotlo)

2009-11-13T13:26:00.015-05:00

Millet is possibly the first domesticated cereal grain. Recent evidence suggests that it has been grown in East Asia since 8000 BC and was the staple grain before the popularization of rice. Its cultivation is mentioned in the Bible.

Today millet is the sixth most cultivated grain in the world, but is largely unknown in North America and Europe. India and Nigeria are the world’s largest producers, followed by China and several African countries. It is a hardy crop that grows well without fertilizer and in water-poor environments. As a result it is widely cultivated in the global South, especially among the poorest people in these regions. It is generally not traded in the international markets.

Millet is gluten-free and non-allergenic. It is high in protein, fiber, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium and B-complex vitamins. It is popularly used to make porridge in Russia and China, and is an important alcohol grain in Nepal, China, Balkan countries and India.

In Gujarat and other parts of India, where my family has its roots, millet is used to make the traditional local staple flatbread (known as rotlo or bhakri). Rotlo is thicker, coarser and more rigid than chapati, with which it has now largely been replaced. This recipe is a spicy version, but rotlo is traditionally made only with both flours, salt, oil and water (one can make the recipe below with just those five ingredients). My mother tells me that as a baby, I loved to eat yogurt with crushed rotlo. I guess some things never change...

Ingredients
3 cups millet flour (also known as bajari)
1 cup whole wheat flour
2 teaspoons dried fenugreek leaves, chopped
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 1/2 teaspoons ginger paste
1 1/2 teaspoons garlic paste
4 green onions, thinly chopped
1/4 cup cilantro leaves, chopped
3 tablespoons oil (olive or vegetable)
1 1/2 to 1 3/4 cups water

Directions
1. In a large bowl, use your hands to mix all the ingredients (except the water).
2. Add 1 cup of water to form a dough. Add additional water slowly until all the flour is incorporated and you have a soft but firm dough.
3. In the meantime, heat a large non-stick skillet on medium-high heat.
4. Separate dough into four balls.
5. Place one ball on an unused J cloth or silicone baking mat on a flat surface.
6. Flatten the ball using your fingers to press dough towards the edge. Continue until the bread is about 1/4 inch thick and about 7 to 8 inches in diameter. Make sure it is even in thickness.
7. Lift the J cloth or mat to transfer the bread onto one of your hands (flat side up) and run under a small stream of water until wet.
8. Place the bread (wet side down) on the skillet. Cook for two minutes.
9. Moisten the top of the bread and flip. Cook for an additional two minutes.
10. Flip back to original side and cook for one further minute. Using a flat spatula, remove to a plate. Eat warm and serve with yogurt or vegetable curry.

Semolina Pudding (Siro or Sooji Halwa)

2009-10-29T22:44:00.006-04:00

In a previous posting I mentioned semolina pudding (also called siro or sooji halwa) which is a common treat in South Asia. This pudding can be served for breakfast, as an appetizer (sometimes with papadums), or as a dessert. I recently made this in celebration of Divali.

Ingredients
2 1/2 cups whole milk (can substitute 1% or 2% milk)
3/4 cups granulated sugar
2 pinches of orange food powder or several drops of orange food color
1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter
1 cup semolina
1/2 cup boiling water
1/4 teaspoon saffron
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
3/4 teaspoon cardamom
1/2 cup evaporated milk (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped pistachios
2 tablespoons chopped almonds

Directions
1. In a deep pot, bring milk, sugar and color to a boil over medium heat.
2. At the same time in another pot over medium heat, sauté semolina in butter until light golden brown. This will take about 10 to 15 minutes.
3. Remove semolina from the heat. Wearing oven mitts, carefully add boiling water (the semolina will bubble and splatter). Stir well.

4. Quickly add nutmeg, cardamom and saffron to warm milk and mix well. Return semolina to heat and add warm milk mixture. Stir until the mixture thickens.

5. Add evaporated milk and continue to stir well until mixture is the consistency of pre-baked cornbread batter.
6. Garnish with nuts. You can also garnish with shredded coconut, white poppy seeds and/or raisins.
7. This dish can be frozen for up to two months. To defrost, place in fridge overnight. Reheat over low heat by adding several tablespoons of water and stirring well. Alternately, add water and reheat in the microwave.

Cauliflower Curry

2009-10-06T23:49:00.007-04:00

Mark Twain famously said that “cauliflower is nothing but cabbage with a college education”. Although some interpret this as an insult to the vegetable, it is actually a glorification of education. In Victorian times cauliflower was a prized vegetable while cabbage was a mundane staple.

Cauliflower is a member of the species Brassica oleracea which includes broccoli, kale, cabbage, brussel sprouts and collard greens. Its name comes from caulis (Latin for stalk or stem). The vegetable originated in the Mediterranean and is now cultivated worldwide. While cauliflower is commonly white, it can also be found in green and purple versions. More recently, an orange cauliflower variety is available – initially created through a natural mutation of a plant in Canada.

Cauliflower is high in dietary fiber, folic acid and vitamin C. The floret or curd (the white portion) is edible. The green leaves are also edible if well cooked. Studies show that cauliflower contains anti-estrogens and compounds that are anti-carcinogenic. My friend Naheed recently alerted me to the culinary micro-craze around roasted cauliflower which apparently tastes like popcorn.

This recipe, originally styled as ‘Satyamma’s Famous Cauliflower Curry’ comes from Mollie Katzen’s The Moosewood Cookbook, one of the holy books in the vegetarian recipe canon. I’ve omitted potatoes from the original, and instead included chickpeas and green peas. By the way, Katzen does not tell us who Satyamma is.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large onion, diced
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 cup unsweetened, shredded coconut
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1 tablespoon garlic paste
2 tablespoons ginger paste
1/2 cup unsalted peanuts, toasted
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
2 tablespoons cumin powder
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1 – 1 1/2 cups water
1 large cauliflower, cut into florets
1 large carrot, cut into thin slices
1 can chickpeas, rinsed
1/2 cup green peas
1 lemon, juiced

Directions
1. In a large pot over medium, heat oil and sauté onion and salt for 5 minutes or until onions are translucent.
2. At the same time, place the next ten ingredients in a blender and form a paste. Add more water if necessary. Set aside.
3. Add cauliflower and carrots and cook covered for 10 minutes.
4. Add paste and mix well. Cook covered on low heat until the cauliflower is tender. Stir occasionally and add water if necessary.
5. Add the chickpeas, green peas and lemon juice. Mix well, simmer for 2 minutes.
6. Serve with rice and yogurt.

Pomegranate Couscous

2009-09-20T21:39:00.010-04:00

Couscous consists of small pellets of wheat used as a staple similar to rice or pasta. There are two types of couscous, both of which are used in the recipe below. What I call ‘regular’ couscous is made by creating pellets from moistened semolina coated with fine wheat flour. These are about 1mm in diameter before cooking. The other type, commonly called pearl or Israeli couscous, is about 2-3mm in diameter and is made from hard wheat instead of semolina.

Traditional couscous is hand-made and shaped in a very labor-intensive process. It is often steamed several times until cooked. In North America and Europe, one can purchase pre-steamed couscous which is easily prepared by adding boiling water. This quick-cooking version is popular because it can be prepared in five minutes with minimal fuss.

Early references to couscous date to 13th century Syria and Moorish Spain. By the 17th century it was known in Sicily, Tuscany, Rome and Brittany. Today it is a staple in the Maghreb, and is common but less popular in the Middle East, Southern Europe and among the Sephardic Jewish diaspora. While often topped with meat, fish or vegetables, it is often prepared as a dessert with some combination of nuts, sugar/honey, raisins, coconut, cinnamon, and milk/cream.

I made this couscous as a side dish for Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year. It contains pomegranates which are one of the foods associated with this holiday. It was served with my Aunt Barbara’s Mediterranean chicken. To read about the significance of Rosh Hashanah, see last year’s post for honey cake.

Serves 14-16

Ingredients
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
6 tablespoons butter
2 teaspoons salt
2 cups regular couscous
1 1/2 cups pine nuts
1 1/2 cups shallots, finely chopped
2 1/2 cups pearl (also called Israeli) couscous
4 dried bay leaves
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
zest of 2 lemons
1 bunch parsley, finely chopped
3/4 cup golden raisins
black pepper, to taste
1 pomegranate, seeds removed

Directions
1. In a large pot bring 2 cups stock, 2 tablespoons butter and 1 teaspoon salt to a boil.
2. Remove from heat, add regular couscous and cover for 5 minutes.
3. Fluff with a fork and set aside.
4. Add 2 more tablespoons butter to the pot, and over medium heat sauté pine nuts until golden brown and fragrant. Set aside.
5. Add 2 more tablespoons butter to the pot, and over medium heat sauté shallots until translucent.
6. Add pearl couscous, bay leaves and cinnamon. Stir for 5-7 minutes until the couscous browns slightly.
7. Add remaining stock and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer for 8-10 minutes until all the liquid has been absorbed. Make sure that the couscous is tender.
8. Remove from heat and discard the bay leaves.
9. In a large mixing bowl, combine regular couscous and pearl couscous. Add pine nuts, lemon zest, parsley, raisins, pepper and half pomegranate seeds. Mix well.
10. Serve topped with remaining pomegranate seeds.

Mocha Ice Cream Cake

2009-09-06T10:30:00.010-04:00

Nothing says summer like ice cream. To mark Labor Day (which was inspired by Canadian Labour Day), the unofficial end of summer in the United States, I’m offering up a recipe for ice cream cake.

I associate ice cream cake with chain stores such as Dairy Queen and Carvel. Most of these cakes consist of two layers of hard ice cream “frosted” with a soft serve ice cream. Many of them have an additional layer of cookie crumbs, nuts or candy bar pieces. Although common for children’s birthday parties, fancier versions, sometimes containing sponge cake, are now appearing at wedding receptions.

The earliest ice cream cake recipes appeared in the 1870s and took inspiration from bombes, French desserts made from ice cream and fruit in fancy molds and trifles, a British pudding consisting of sponge cake, fruit, custard and cream.

Store bought ice cream cakes can be very rich. This version allows you to reduce calories without giving up taste - the graham cracker crust is made with yogurt instead of butter and frozen yogurt or reduced fat ice cream can be used. For a recent ice cream cake I used Stonyfield Farm’s non-fat After Dark Chocolate frozen yogurt and Starbucks coffee ice cream. The combination of low fat and full fat layers was a healthy and delicious compromise.

Serves 8-12

Ingredients
2 cups graham cracker crumbs
5 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 teaspoons instant coffee granules
4 to 6 tablespoons plain or coffee-flavored yogurt (reduced fat acceptable)
1 pint chocolate ice cream or frozen yogurt (reduced fat acceptable)
1 pint coffee ice cream or frozen yogurt (reduced fat acceptable)
1/4 to 1/3 cup chocolate chips (optional)
whipped cream (optional), for serving

Directions
1. Line a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper. Coat inside with cooking spray.
2. In a medium bowl mix graham cracker crumbs, cocoa, sugar, coffee granules and yogurt and mix well until incorporated.
3. Press mixture into the bottom of the pan. Chill in the freezer for 15 minutes.
4. Soften chocolate ice cream at room temperature and spread evenly over crust. Chill in freezer for 15 minutes.
5. Soften coffee ice cream at room temperature and spread evenly over chocolate ice cream layer. Sprinkle with chocolate chips (optional). Chill in freezer for at least 1 hour.
6. When ready to serve, use a butter knife to cut around edges of pan.
7. Gently release the side of the pan. Allow cake to sit at room temperature for 5 minutes. If cake is melting, put back into freezer to firm up.

8. Slice cake with a warm serrated knife. Serve with whipped cream (optional).
9. Any uneaten cake can be refrozen for up to one month. For easier storage, cut cake into pieces and freeze individually or in groups wrapped in foil or in tupperware.

Thai Tea Ice Cream

2009-08-12T22:56:00.005-04:00

Denizens of Thai food restaurants are familiar with super sweet, orange-colored iced tea. In this recipe, my friend Yvonne transforms the refreshing Thai beverage into ice cream.

Thai ice tea is made from strongly brewed black tea which may be supplemented with orange blossom water, food coloring, star anise, and/or crushed tamarind seed. The Black tea is sweetened and mixed with one or more of the following: condensed milk, evaporated milk, whole milk or coconut milk. In the United States, Thai ice tea is generally served in a tall glass; in Thailand it is more often seen in a to-go clear plastic bag with a straw sticking out.

This photograph shows profiteroles filled with Thai tea ice cream. Watch this space for a post about how to make this and other choux pastry treats.

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients
4 cups heavy cream (can substitute up to half with whole milk)
Thai tea (1/4 cup loose leaves in a tea sock or 3 teabags)
3/4 to 1 cup granulated sugar
1 to 2 eggs yolks, beaten (optional)

Directions
1. In a large saucepan over low heat, warm cream and/or milk.
2. After mixture is warm add Thai tea and sugar and infuse for 20 or 30 minutes until mixture is a rich salmon color. Stir occasionally. Taste and extend infusion for stronger flavor and add additional sugar to taste.
3. Add egg yolks to produce a richer and less icy ice cream. Add eggs to warm mixture and stir until it thickens.
4. If necessary, strain mixture through a fine sieve to remove any stray tea leaves.
5. Pour into a glass bowl and chill overnight in the refrigerator.
6. Then transfer to an ice cream maker and follow manufacturer’s instructions.

Spinach and Farmer Cheese Curry (Palak Paneer)

2009-07-29T18:42:00.011-04:00

Palak paneer is a South Asian curry made of palak (spinach) and paneer (Indian cheese). It is popular throughout Northern India and Pakistan, especially in the Punjab region where it is a common vegetarian dish.

Spinach is thought to have originated in Nepal, and through Muslim conquests and trade, was spread to China by 647, and later Spain and other parts of the Muslim world. Spinach was a favorite vegetable of Catherine de' Medici of Florence, Italy, and to this day dishes served on a bed of spinach are referred to as a la Florentine.

The world’s largest producer of spinach is China, followed by the United States. California grows almost three quarters of the vegetable produced in this country.

Spinach is considered to be highly nutritious as popularized by the American cartoon Popeye. Although high in iron and calcium, the type of iron spinach contains (non-heme) as well as high levels of oxalate render these minerals difficult to absorb. In addition, the vegetable contains high levels of Vitamins A, B9, C and K. These are highest in fresh or steamed spinach; cooked or boiled spinach has dramatically lower levels of these vitamins and minerals. In fact, cooked broccoli and cauliflower have twice the iron of cooked spinach.

Fresh spinach loses its nutritional value the longer it is stored. Research also shows it to be one of the most heavily pesticide-contaminated vegetables. In addition, it has been the vector for recent E. coli and salmonella outbreaks.

Despite these nutritional limitations and health concerns, which I must admit were largely unknown to me before writing this posting, palak paneer is a tasty and filling curry. It will last up to five days in the refrigerator.

Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients
2 pounds chopped frozen spinach
5 tablespoons vegetable oil
10 - 14 ounces paneer, cut in 1/2 inch cubes (or use extra firm tofu)
2 teaspoons garlic paste or minced garlic
3 teaspoons ginger paste or minced ginger
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 large onion, chopped
1 teaspoon of salt, or to taste
2 medium tomatoes, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon of cayenne or chilli powder
2 tablespoons coriander powder
2 teaspoons garam masala
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
up to 1 cup full or low fat sour cream (optional)
1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves

Directions
1. Defrost spinach in the microwave according to package instructions. Set aside to cool. Do not remove excess water.
2. Heat half the oil in a large cooking pot on medium-low. Add paneer and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until light golden brown. Set aside. If using tofu it may take longer to brown.
3. Add the remaining oil and garlic, ginger and cumin seeds. After 3 minutes add onion and salt, and sauté for 5 minutes on medium heat until translucent. Add the tomatoes and continue cooking for 5 more minutes.
4. Transfer onion/tomato mixture to a blender and process for 30 seconds. Add a little water if necessary. Return to pot and add cayenne/chilli powder, coriander, garam masala and turmeric.
5. Mix thoroughly and simmer on low.
6. Transfer spinach to the blender (in more than one batch if necessary). Blend for 30 seconds until mixed. If necessary, add 1/2 to 1 cup of water.
7. Pour contents back into pot and mix well. Add sour cream and paneer and heat until bubbling.
8. Garnish with fresh cilantro. Serve warm with rice or bread (chappatis, parathas or naan).

Cherry Apricot Salsa

2009-07-19T14:00:00.008-04:00

Cherry season is in full swing in New York – from Hamptons road-side stands to suburban barbeques, I’ve been inundated with these juicy, red orbs.

Cherries originated in Anatolia, in what is present day Turkey. They were brought to Rome in antiquity from the town of Cerasus (present day Giresun) from which the word cherry is derived. In addition to their fruit, cherry trees are known for their beautiful flowers.

Most cherry cultivars are derived from the wild cherry; the sour cherry, a separate species, is mostly used for cooking. Cherries contain anthocynanins which are antioxidants that are thought to reduce pain and inflammation. Turkey leads world production of cherries, followed by the United States, Iran, Italy and Russia.

I recently remembered a delicious cherry salsa that my friend Karen made years ago in Boston. It requires some heavy chopping (and pitting cherries, which can be difficult), but is a great starter for an outdoor meal. I made the salsa on Friday for a picnic we had with our friends Annika and Christoph in Carl Schurz Park.

The key to success is to use ripe fruit, especially ripe apricots. Mine were a bit too firm, but the salsa still went over well. You can keep it for up to three days but it is best served fresh. Leftovers can also be used as a tangy complement to grilled chicken.

Remember that cherry juice can stain clothing so don’t wear white. The best way to remove a cherry stain is to put the clothing in boiling water.

Ingredients
3/4 lb ripe fresh cherries, pitted, quartered
3/4 lb ripe fresh apricots, pitted, diced (to size of cherry quarters)
3 green onions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons basil, finely shredded
2 teaspoons fresh thyme
1 lime, juiced
2 tablespoons orange juice
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon garlic paste or minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt

Directions
1. In a large bowl mix cherries, apricots, green onions, basil and thyme.
2. In a small bowl beat together lime juice, orange juice, honey, garlic and salt.
3. Pour juices over fruit and mix well. Store in the refrigerator overnight to allow the flavors to mingle.
4. Serve at room temperature with tortilla chips.

Strawberry Shortcake

2009-07-05T10:40:00.015-04:00

As a child I thought of Strawberry Shortcake as a doll with scented hair, along with her friends Huckleberry Pie and Blueberry Muffin which were part of a 32-character line (all with dessert-themed names) created in the 1980s. The Strawberry Shortcake fad included stickers, clothes, video games, and many other items. Consumer demand waned after several years, but was revived with mild success in 2002 and has another planned relaunch this year with a film and a television series.

It wasn’t until my adulthood that I experienced the dessert that inspired the character. Shortcakes are thus named because they use shortening, and are a European invention that dates to at least the 16th century. Shakespeare makes a reference to shortcake in The Merry Wives of Windsor.

The combination of shortcake and strawberries, however, is an American invention. The earliest known recipe is from an 1847 cookbook where it is called Strawberry Cake. The dessert became very popular in the 1850s and 1860s as the first transcontinental railroad made it possible for fresh strawberries to be shipped nationally. Advertisers induced strawberry fever by encouraging demand for the fruit; strawberry shortcake parties became popular as a celebration of the coming summer.

Originally, strawberry shortcake was meant to be made from piecrust in a round or in pieces covered with strawberries. The current dominant version uses a scone or biscuit. Some modern recipes use a sponge cake, especially common in Japan where strawberry shortcake is a favorite Christmas or birthday cake. While strawberry shortcake is the most common version of the dessert, shortcakes can be served with peaches, blueberries or other summer fruit. Some recipes call for flavored shortcakes; coconut is the most common variant. I suggest serving the shortcake with vanilla ice cream for a more substantive finish to a summer meal.

Leftover shortcakes can be refrigerated for several days or frozen for up a month (thaw overnight in the refrigerator and then bring up to room temperature). You can also eat them for breakfast - toasted and spread with butter and berry jam.

Serves 6

Shortcake

1 3/4 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/4 cup cold unsalted butter (1/2 stick), cut into chunks

1/2 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon heavy cream

zest from one orange

Strawberry Topping
1 to 2 pints strawberries, washed, stems removed and quartered

2 tablespoons orange juice or Cointreau

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (optional)

vanilla ice cream and whipped cream, to serve

1. To make biscuits, in a large bowl, mix flour, sugar, cornstarch and baking powder.
2. Using a pastry cutter or two knives work in butter until it resembles coarse meal.
3. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and add buttermilk, 1/4 cup cream and orange zest.
4. Stir with a fork until a dough just forms.
5. Turn dough out onto a floured surface and knead until it just holds together.
6. Place dough back in the large bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes.
7. Preheat oven to 375 F.
8. On a floured surface, pat out dough until 1/2 inch thick. Cut out shortcakes using a 3-inch circular cutter.
9. Transfer shortcakes to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush lightly with remaining heavy cream and sprinkle with sugar.
10. Bake for 15 to 20 or until golden brown. Transfer to a rack to cool.
11. To make strawberry topping, gently mix all the ingredients. Stand at room temperature for 1 hour before serving.
12. To serve, slice shortcake in half horizontally. Place a scoop of ice cream on the bottom, add strawberry topping and top with shortcake top. Serve with a dollop of homemade whipped cream. Alternately, skip ice cream and place whipped cream in shortcake sandwich.

Apricot and Cherry Cake

2009-06-20T11:41:00.009-04:00

Less can be more. That’s my lesson after a recent baking experiment. I was poking through my cabinets to find inspiration when I came across a bag of dark dried fruit. I couldn’t figure out what they were. Not dates. Not prunes. Not figs. I then realized they were organic dried apricots. Without preservatives they turn brown after picking but they still taste the same.

I shuffled through my recipe collection and found one for apricot and cherry cake. However, it seemed a bit rich – lots of butter and eggs. To make it lighter, I reduced the butter and egg yolks and added yogurt. As I was beating the batter I noticed how fluffy it was – because of the egg whites.

The batter nearly filled the loaf pan. I thought about removing some of it, but figured it was unlikely to overflow.

Wrong. Halfway through baking, a burning smell reached the bedroom. Rushing to open the door, I saw that some batter had overflowed onto the bottom of the oven. It was blackening and starting to produce smoke. I’m sad to say this isn’t my first such experience so I knew what to do – I removed the cake, scraped the fallen batter, and placed the cake on top of a foil-covered baking sheet before sliding it back into the oven. In the end, it took much longer to bake and didn’t rise very much. However, it was delicious and reasonably light.

The lesson here is that by reducing the egg yolks and butter, I had created a fluffier cake which required a larger pan. Baking is a science so it’s important to understand the chemistry involved when experimenting. The other lesson is to trust your gut. When I saw how much batter there was I should have divided it into two pans.

The recipe below has been adjusted to produce just enough batter for a single loaf pan.

Please note I’ve created a new tag – Freezes Well – on the suggestion of one of my readers. I hope to add this tag retroactively.

Serves 12

Ingredients
1/3 cup dried apricots
1/3 cup dried cherries
1 1/3 cups cake flour (equivalent to 1 1/3 cups minus 2 tablespoons unbleached all purpose flour + 2 tablespoons corn starch)

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1/2 cup unsalted butter (1 stick), at room temperature

1 cup granulated sugar

2 eggs
2 egg whites
2 1/2 tablespoons yogurt (flavored or plain)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/3 cup milk

Directions
1. Submerge and soak dried fruit in warm water for 15 minutes. Drain well and cut apricots into quarters. Set aside.
2. Preheat oven to 350F. Grease a loaf pan with butter. Line the bottom with wax paper, and grease and flour the pan.
3. In a medium bowl mix combine flour, baking powder, salt and nutmeg. Set aside.
4. In a large bowl beat butter on medium speed for 2 minutes. Add sugar and beat for an additional 2 minutes.
5. Add whole eggs and beat until combined. Add egg whites and beat for an additional 2 minutes.
6. Add yogurt and vanilla and beat until just mixed.
7. Reduce beater to low and add half of the dry ingredients, then the milk, then the remaining dry ingredients. Using a spatula, fold in apricots and cherries.
8. Transfer batter to the baking pan and smooth the top with the spatula. Bake for 45-60 minutes, until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean.
9. Allow cake to cool completely in the pan. Then unmold and serve. Can be kept in an airtight container or a well-covered plate for 3-5 days at room temperature, and up to one week in the refridgerator. To freeze, seal with plastic wrap and place in a Ziplock bag. Will keep for 3 months. To serve, unwrap and warm to room temperature.

Pistachio Shortbread

2009-06-03T16:07:00.003-04:00

Pistachios are native to Iran, Turkey, Afghanistan and Turkmenistan and the first archeological record of their consumption dates to 6760BC in what is present day Jordan. They were brought to Italy from Syria during the reign of Tiberius in the first century. The word derives from Persian and comes to English via Latin.

While Iran still leads in international pistachio production, the United States is a close second. Until the 1970s, most pistachio consumed in the U.S. were imported from Iran. After relations between the two countries deteriorated starting in the 1970s, Americans started growing these nuts on plantations in California.

Pistachios are often eaten whole – salted or roasted - and are a popular flavoring in sweets such as ice cream, cookies and puddings. They are even more common in confections from the Middle East and South Asia including baklava and burfi among many others. These nuts are also traditionally used to make mortadella, an Italian pork sausage flavored with spices, nuts and herbs, and widely used in savory dishes from India, Iran and North Africa.

Research shows that pistachios significantly reduce LDL (bad) cholesterol and increase antioxidant level in humans. In rats, they increase HDL (good) cholesterol without decreasing bad cholesterol.

This recipe is my adaptation of nan khatai, an Ismaili shortbread previously featured on this site.

Makes 24 cookies

Ingredients

1 cup unsalted butter (2 sticks), at room temperature

3/4 cups white sugar

1 egg

2 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1/3 cup semolina

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon cardamom
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 cup pistachios, chopped

1-2 tablespoons milk
pistachios, for garnish

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 300 F. Grease or line baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a medium-sized bowl, mix flour, semolina, baking powder, cardamom, nutmeg and pistachios. Set aside.

3. In a large mixing bowl, beat butter and sugar until fluffy, approximately 3 minutes. Add egg and mix well.
4. Slowly add the flour mixture to the butter mixture. It may take a few minutes to incorporate all the flour. Add milk to soften the dough.
5. To form cookies, roll 2 tablespoons of dough between the palms of your hands to form a circular disk (thicker in the middle than at the edges). Place on a baking sheet and flatten slightly.

6. To decorate, gently press a pistachio into the center of each cookie.
7. Bake for 20-22 minutes until you see a hint of color. Do not bake until golden brown. Remove immediately to a wire rack to prevent further baking. Once cool, cookies should break easily but not be crumbly. If the cookies are crisp, then they were over-baked.

Berry Cheesecake

2009-05-23T16:13:00.006-04:00

In the United States, Memorial Day weekend marks the social beginning of summer (as opposed to the calendar start on June 21). One of the most delicious pleasures of the season is fresh fruit. My favorites include watermelon, peaches, and berries, which were featured in last week’s muffin recipe.

This week, I’ve decided to go back-to-back with another berry recipe. For this cheesecake, you can use one of several types of berries, or a combination. However, I favor blackberries, a generic term which describes several hundred species of dark red, purple or black berries native to the cooler climates of the Northern hemisphere. The berries can also be found in Australia, New Zealand and Chile where they are often considered invasive weed species. Oregon has the distinction of producing more blackberries than any other region in the world.

The earliest indication of blackberry consumption comes from forensic evidence from a 2500-year old Danish “mummy” discovered in a peat bog in the nineteenth century. These fruit contain high levels of dietary fiber, vitamin C, vitamin K, folic acid and manganese. Blackberries are used extensively in cooking, especially in the production of jams, cakes and pies. The fruit is sometimes used to make sauces to marinate or glaze pork, chicken or beef.

In modern life, the word 'blackberry' more often refers to a wireless handheld device than the fruit. So named because of its dark color and a keypad that resembles a collection of seeds, the ubiquitous gadget is so addictive to users that it has been nicknamed the crackberry.

Serves 8

Ingredients
Crust
3 cups graham cracker crumbs
2/3 cup unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup white sugar

Filling
1 lb cream cheese
1 cup white sugar
4 eggs

Topping
4 pints berries (whole blackberries, whole raspberries and/or quartered strawberries), washed and at room temperature
1/4 cup brown sugar (optional)
1/2 to 1 teaspoon cinnamon

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 300 F. If using a 10-inch springform pan, use the ingredient list above. If you don’t have a springform pan, make cheesecake in a 9-inch metal pie tin but use HALF of ALL the ingredients.
2. To make crust, in a large bowl mix graham cracker crumbs, melted butter and sugar.
3. Using your fingers or the back of a spoon, pack the crumb mixture so that it evenly covers the bottom of the pan. If using a pie tin, make sure there is crust on the sides as well as the bottom.
4. To make filling, in a large bowl beat cream cheese, sugar and eggs until smooth. Pour into the pan and bake for 40 minutes or until the surface is very light brown. Let the cheesecake cool for 30-60 minutes at room temperature.
5. In another bowl, toss the berries, brown sugar and cinnamon. Spoon onto the warm cheesecake and serve immediately. You can also chill cheesecake in the refrigerator for 4 hours or overnight. Either way, place berries on the cheesecake just before serving.

Berry Muffins

2009-05-13T19:19:00.008-04:00

On Sunday mornings, we sleep in to balance our perennial 6am weekday alarm. Between blinding sunlight and circadian rhythms, however, we’re not always successful. For me Sundays are special because we have time to make a warm breakfast or brunch. Eggs are our regular fare, but once in a while we’ll make pancakes or waffles.

This past Sunday I got up early to create berry muffins, and they were just coming out of the oven when my boyfriend woke up. There’s nothing more divine than warm baked goods slathered in butter, jam, apple butter or cream cheese.

I used frozen blueberries for this version but you can also use strawberries, raspberries or blackberries. Also, flavored yogurt can provide an interesting twist. Try vanilla, banana, strawberry or peach.

Makes 12

Ingredients

1 cup whole wheat flour

1 cup unbleached, all purpose flour

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1/4 cup butter (1/2 stick), melted

2 eggs, lightly beaten

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 cup yogurt (low fat and flavored okay)

1 cup fresh or frozen berries (chop strawberries, other berries can go in whole)

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 375F. Line a muffin pan with foil cups and squirt each cup with cooking spray.

2. In a large bowl, mix flours, sugar and baking soda.

3. In a small bowl, mix butter, eggs, vanilla and yogurt.

4. Toss berries into flour mixture and then add yogurt mixture.

5. Mix well. The batter may appear slightly dry but do not add additional liquid.

6. Spoon batter evenly into muffin liners and bake for 20 minutes or until a cake tester comes out clean.

7. Cool for 5 minutes and serve immediately. Will keep in an airtight container for 3 days. To reheat, microwave for 15 seconds. Serve with your favorite spread.

Vegetable Samosas

2009-05-08T06:53:00.019-04:00

Samosas are wildly popular among Indians and are commonly served as appetizers or snacks. They are also loved by non-Indians, which makes them a good item to serve in mixed crowds, even with relatively unadventurous eaters. Who doesn't like deep fried stuffed pastry?

In the Ismaili community, we make samosas that are relatively small (3-4 inches on the edge), flat and have a medium-thick pastry. Those of you living in North America are probably more familiar with the baseball sized, thick-pastry variety which are served in Indian restaurants. When I was young my mom would make meat and vegetable samosas from scratch. Later on, we would buy uncooked versions and fry them up for our guests. My mom, who is a health nut, started to bake them, which was much healthier and prevented a 'deep fried smell' in the house. While the recipe below is not hers, I take insipiration from her artery-friendly methods.

Although most commonly associated with India, samosas originated in Central Asia before the 10th century, and were introduced into the Indian subcontinent by traders in the 13th and 14th centuries. The word can be traced to the Persian word sanbosag. Other names include sanbusak in Arab countries, samsa in Turkik languages, sambosa in Afghanistan, sambusa in Iran and chamuça in Goa and Portugal. Due to migration and globalization samosas are now popular in Southeast Asia, East Africa, United Kingdom, North America and the former Portuguese colonies of Africa.

Samosas are usually triangle-shaped pastry shells stuffed with vegetables, potatoes or beef. Variations abound including chicken, fish, lamb, pork, pumpkin, paneer or cheese. Apparently, sweet versions are also produced in some places. In addition to different fillings, the pastry varies significantly from delicate phyllo dough to thick pastry crusts.

Traditionally samosas are deep fried, though in many Western countries they are now baked. I would not recommend frying this phyllo version due to the delicacy of the pastry. If you want deep fried samosas, use commercially available samosa wrappers (you can also use spring roll pastry or wonton wrappers) which are made from a thicker dough. Samosa are usually served with chutney. I prepared a tamarind version but mint or coconut/cilantro chutneys are also popular.

Makes 36 small samosas

Ingredients

Tamarind Chutney
2 cups hot water

2 1/2 tablespoons tamarind concentrate

1 cup packed dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon cumin

Samosas
3/4 pound red potatoes, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
2 tablespoons oil (canola or corn)
1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds
5-8 curry leaves
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 cups frozen mixed vegetables (peas, corn and carrots), defrosted to room temperature
2 teaspoons garlic
1 teaspoon ginger
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon garam masala
1 tablespoon lemon juice
handful of cilantro leaves, chopped
1 to 2 sticks (1/2 cup to 1 cup) unsalted butter, melted (butter substitute or olive oil for vegans)
8 ounces phyllo pastry dough (9 x 14 inch sheets), thawed overnight in the fridge

Directions
1. To make the tamarind chutney place all of the ingredients in a medium bowl or large lidded jar. Mix or shake well. The chutney can be prepared ahead and will last in the refrigerator for a week or frozen for three months. To defrost, thaw overnight in the fridge.
2. To make the samosas, boil potatoes until almost cooked. Cool to room temperature. Can be done a day in advance but make sure potatoes are at room temperature for this recipe.
3. In a large pot, heat oil on medium. Add mustard seeds and curry leaves. When mustard seeds pop, add onions, potatoes and vegetables. Cook on low heat until tender.
4. Add the next eight ingredients and continue cooking for 2-3 minutes.
5. Remove from heat and set aside to cool to room temperature. Once cooled, add cilantro and mix well. Set aside samosa filling.
6. Melt one stick of butter in the microwave or on the stovetop. Once melted, unpack and unroll the phyllo sheets. Cover the sheets with a damp (not wet) towel to keep them from drying out. You will have to work quickly once the phyllo is unwrapped.
7. Place one sheet of phyllo on a clean work surface (a cutting board works well) and brush liberally with butter. Place another sheet on top and brush with butter. Cut the sheets into strips that are approximately 3 inches wide and 9 inches long.
8. Make sure the strips are laid out vertically. At the end of one strip place 1 to 2 tablespoons of samosa filling. Fold one corner in to fully cover the filling (thus forming a triangle tip). Now fold over the section containing the filling twice, making sure to keep it from falling out. Brush all visible surfaces with butter before folding once more. Fold the remaining phyllo over and use additional butter/oil to seal the samosa. Melt more butter if necessary. Click on this recipe for Spanakopita Triangles to see photos of the process step-by-step.
9. Place samosas (seal on the bottom) on two parchment or foil-lined baking sheets. Cover with a damp towel until ready to bake. [see second image above]
10. Repeat with other strips of phyllo and then with all phyllo sheets.
11. Bake at 375F for 20-25 minutes or until golden brown. Serve warm.
12. Leftovers can be refrigerated and reheated in a toaster oven or oven (do not use a microwave as samosas will become soggy). Alternately, unbaked samosas can be frozen immediately and baked when needed (bake from frozen, do not thaw first).

Simple Guacamole

2009-05-03T10:19:00.005-04:00

Mexico is getting a bad rap this week as the epicenter of the soon-to-be pandemic H1N1 (aka Swine) flu virus. To balance out the hysteria, especially of those who advocate sealing off the U.S.-Mexico border, I want to highlight one of the great things that has come to us across that border (or maybe it was through the 1848 cession/annexation of Northwestern Mexico, which is now the American Southwest).

In any case, many Mexican dishes have become adapted or served as inspiration for American cuisine, including quesadillas, tamales, fajitas, chilli, tacos, churros and burritos... I could go on. Guacamole, an avocado-based relish or dip, is a great accompaniment to several of these dishes and many others.

The name guacamole comes from an Aztec dialect via the Nahuatl meaning avocado sauce. Traditionally, it was made by mashing avocados in a mortar and pestle and adding tomatoes and salt. Many restaurants prepare guacamole at the table using a traditional molcajete, which is a large mortar and pestle made from lava rock.

Some versions contain lime/lemon juice, chilli peppers, garlic, cumin, cilantro and onions. I once made a recipe from Martha Stewart’s magazine containing fruit chunks including grapes. Yuck! In addition to the above dishes, guacamole is often served with tortilla chips or as a topping for toast, burgers, baked potatoes, grilled meat, eggs and sandwiches.

Why not plan a Mexican-style meal this Tuesday in honor of Cinco de Mayo? ¡Viva México!

Ingredients
1 lime, juiced
2 avocados
1/2 white onion, finely diced
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons cilantro, thinly sliced

Directions
1. Put lime juice into a medium bowl. The lime will prevent rapid browning of the avocado.
2. To remove avocado flesh, slice avocado in half. Turn the halves in opposite directions to separate. Gently peel the skin off each half – it may help to slice the pieces to make it easier to remove the skin. Cut avocado into small cubes and place in the lime juice.
3. Using a fork, mash the avocado slightly. Leave it chunky - do not make it into a sauce. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well.
4. Guacamole will brown if left out too long. Some claim that leaving the avocado pit in the guacamole overnight will prevent this but it has not worked for me. Therefore I suggest you serve and consume immediately.

Sweet Matzoh Brei

2009-04-23T08:43:00.006-04:00

It’s been a couple of weeks since Passover and many Jewish people (and their admirers) realize that they have boxes of unused matzoh. I’ve learned that these make great vehicles for peanut butter, honey, chocolate and jelly. However if you want a substantive meal, your best bet is matzoh brei (literally fried matzoh). The dish is essentially matzoh French toast and comes out of the same tradition – a way to salvage unused or stale bread.

Matzoh brei can be sweet or savory and prepared formed like a frittata or loose like scrambled eggs. It can be topped with salsa, apple sauce, jelly, sugar or preserves. Some people incorporate cheese, meat or vegetables. Matzoh brei is generally prepared during Passover when observant Jews do not eat leavened bread. However it makes a delicious and quick breakfast or brunch at any time of the year.

Ingredients
3 matzohs
hot water
3 eggs
1/2 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
maple syrup, for serving

Serves 2-3

Directions
1. Break matzoh into pieces, approximately 1-2 inch squares.
2. Place in a strainer and pour 2 cups of boiling water over the matzohs. Let sit for 2 minutes.

3. In a medium bowl beat eggs, milk and vanilla.
4. Place skillet over medium heat and melt butter.
5. Dip all the matzoh into egg mixture and transfer to heated skillet.

6. Cook on one side and then flip over to cook on the other side. The matzoh brei should be as cooked as scrambled eggs before serving.
7. Sprinkle liberally with cinnamon and serve with maple syrup.

Chocolate Chip Banana Bread

2009-04-16T16:54:00.005-04:00

This recipe brings together three of my favourite ingredients – chocolate, coconut and bananas. It’s the second banana bread recipe I’ve posted on this site – check out the first one for more about this American quick bread.

Ingredients
1/2 cup desiccated coconut, toasted

1 1/2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour

1 tsp baking soda

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 cup butter, melted

3/4 cup granulated or caster sugar

2 eggs, beaten

2 overripe bananas, mashed
1 teaspoon coconut extract

1 cup chocolate chips

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 325F. Line a 9 x 5 inch loaf pan with parchment paper and grease and flour the pan.
2. Toast coconut in oven (at 350 F for 10-15 minutes), saucepan or microwave (on high for 30 seconds at a time). Check frequently as coconut can burn easily. Set aside to cool.
3. Mix flour, baking soda, salt, and coconut and set aside.
4. In a large bowl beat together butter and sugar. Add eggs and beat well. Add bananas and coconut extract and mix well.
5. Add wet ingredients to dry ingredients until combined. Fold in chocolate chips. Pour batter into loaf pan.
6. Bake for 45-60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool for 15 minutes in pan. Remove from pan and cool to room temperature.
7. Using a sharp serrated knife, slice banana bread into 3/4 inch pieces. Serve at breakfast, brunch or tea time. Store in air tight container for 2 days at room temperature or refrigerated for one week.

Easter Cupcakes

2009-04-11T22:57:00.013-04:00

Easter is one of my favorite times of year. I have fond childhood memories of egg hunts, chocolate bunnies and peeping yellow chicks. Alberta, the province where I grew up, has a special connection to Easter. The tiny town of Vegreville boasts the world’s largest Ukrainian Easter egg known as a Pysanka.

This week’s recipe is adapted from Ina Garten’s famous coconut cupcakes which are topped with green coconut 'grass' and decorated with chocolate or candy eggs.

Ingredients
Cupcakes
1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups sugar
5 eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 1/2 teaspoons almond extract
2 1/2 cups all purpose unbleached flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup coconut milk
14 ounces shredded coconut

Frosting and Topping
1 pound cream cheese, softened
3/4 cup butter, softened
1 1/2 cups confectioner’s sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
2 cups shredded coconut
6-8 drops green food color
candy eggs

Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 325F. Line a muffin pan with foil liners.
2. In a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar on high speed. Beat in the eggs one at a time. Add the vanilla and almond extracts and mix well.
3. In a small bowl mix together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.
4. Add 1/3 of the dry ingredients and the milk to the wet ingredients. Mix well. Add another 1/3 of dry ingredients and coconut milk. Mix well. Add remaining dry ingredients. Fold in coconut.
5. Spoon batter into muffin liners and bake until toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, approximately 30 minutes.
6. Cool in pan for 10 minutes and remove to baking rack until completely cool.
7. To make frosting, in a large bowl beat cream cheese, butter, confectioner’s sugar, vanilla extract, and almond extract.
8. Using a knife spread frosting on cupcakes.
9. Put shredded coconut in a large Ziplock bag. Add a few drops of food color. Close tightly and shake until the coconut is colored. If you want deeper color, add more food color and repeat.
10. Sprinkle on cupcakes. Gently place two to three eggs on each cupcake. Refrigerate to set the frosting.

Sautéed Scallops with Summer Relish

2009-04-04T20:42:00.004-04:00

Scallops are marine animals found in all of the world’s oceans. Closely related to clams, oysters and mussels, scallops are active swimmers and have the distinction of being the only migratory bivalves (two-shelled mollusks).

The term scallop comes from the ancient port of Ascalon which is modern day Ashkelon, Israel. The shell has become associated with Saint James the Greater, a disciple of Jesus. It is also a symbol of fertility - images of Venus, the Roman Goddess of fertility and love, are often associated with the scallop. The most well known example is Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus. As a testament to its enduring appeal, in 1988 the scallop was named the official shell of New York state.

Scallops are popular in Western and Eastern cuisine. In the United States and Europe they are often sautéed (as in this recipe) or breaded and fried. In Japan scallops are served fresh in sashimi, sushi or soup. In China dried scallops, known as conpoy, are used to flavor sauces, stir fries and rice porridge.

In anticipation of summer, this recipe can provide a fresh and tangy start to your meal.

Serves 4 as an appetizer

Ingredients
1/2 ripe mango, peeled and diced
1/4 red bell pepper, minced
1 green onion, minced
1/8 red onion, minced
handful of cilantro, finely chopped
5 tablespoons olive oil
juice of 1/2 lime
1 teaspoon honey
few drops of Tabasco or other spicy sauce
1 lb sea scallops (about 16)
salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 lemon, cut into wedges

Directions
1. In a small bowl, mix mango, pepper, onions and cilantro. Set aside.
2. In another bowl, mix 2 tablespoons of olive oil, lime juice, honey and Tabasco. Pour over mango mixture. If making in advance, mix the two just before cooking the scallops.
3. Heat remaining olive oil in a large skillet. Sauté scallops over medium heat, about 2-3 minutes on each side.
4. Season scallops with salt and pepper. Serve topped with mango relish. Squeeze a wedge of lemon over each plate before serving.

Peanut Butter Nanaimo Bars

2009-03-29T01:02:00.002-04:00

These are a Canadian classic. To read about the origin and history of Nanaimo bars, see my posting for Peppermint Perfection Nanaimo Bars.

Ingredients
Base
2 cups graham cracker crumbs (12 large crackers)
1 cup shredded coconut
1/2 cup peanuts or walnuts, finely chopped
1/2 cup unsalted butter (1 stick)
1/4 cup sugar
1 egg, beaten or 1/4 cup pasteurized egg product
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon cocoa

Filling
1/2 cup peanut butter
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons instant vanilla pudding mix
2 cups confectioner’s sugar
4 tablespoons milk

Glaze
5 ounces semisweet chocolate chips or finely chopped baking chocolate
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Directions
1. Line (with wax paper or parchment) and butter an 8 x 8 inch metal baking pan.
2. To make base, in a large bowl mix graham cracker crumbs, coconut and nuts. Set aside.
3. In a small bowl melt butter. Add sugar, egg, vanilla and cocoa. Beat well.
4. Add wet ingredients to graham cracker mixture and mix thoroughly. Transfer to baking pan and spread evenly using the back of a metal spoon to create an even surface.
5. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
6. To make filling mix peanut butter and butter. Add pudding mix and confectioner’s sugar. Mix until combined. Add milk slowly until the filling is the consistency of toothpaste.
7. Spread on top of the base and use wet fingers to pat down in an even layer.
8. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
9. To make the glaze, mix chocolate and butter and melt in the microwave for 30 seconds to 1minute. Mix until the glaze is spreadable. Apply with a butter knife. Chill to set.
10. To cut the bars bring them to room temperature for 1 or 2 hours so that the glaze does not crack when cut. Use a sharp knife to score the surface and then make deep cuts to divide the bars.
11. Nanaimo bars can keep in the refrigerator for 1 month and in the freezer for 3 months.

Clove Zucchini Bread

2009-03-20T23:07:00.002-04:00

Zucchini bread is one of my favorite treats. One of the main reasons is that because it contains zucchini and is baked in a loaf pan, I convince myself that I’m eating bread when really I’m eating cake. After all, just like carrot cake, it contains sugar and eggs. One key difference is that both treats are made with oil rather than butter, which is one justification that slightly assuages my guilt. The other is those pretty green flecks throughout the batter. For more about zucchinis, check out my previous posting for a zucchini soup.

The signature flavor of this treat is cloves which are the aromatic, dry flower buds of the evergreen clove tree. Named for their resemblance to nails (clavus in Latin), cloves are native to the Maluku Islands (the Spice Islands) of Indonesia, though they are now cultivated in countries throughout the Indian Ocean. Cloves have been traded and used in South Asia, the Middle East and Europe since antiquity. In addition to their culinary use, they are valued in Ayurveda, Chinese medicine, herbalism and dentistry for their use to dull pain, expel parasitic worms, improve peristalsis, relieve skin disorders and many other uses.

I can’t promise any medical benefits, but a warm piece of zucchini bread slathered with butter or cream cheese usually hits the spot.

Serves 18-24

Ingredients
3 cups unbleached all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
2 teaspoons ground cloves
3 eggs
3/4 cup oil (canola or corn)
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups brown sugar, packed
2 small zucchini, grated (about 2 1/2 cups)

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Grease two loaf pans. Place parchment in the bottom to prevent sticking and re-grease.
2. In a large bowl, combine first six ingredients. Set aside.
3. In a medium bowl, beat eggs. Then add remaining ingredients.
4. Add wet ingredients to dry ingredients and mix well.
5. Divide the batter between loaf pans. There will not be very much batter. Do not worry as it will rise.
6. Bake for 45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
7. Cool for 15 minutes and then remove from pans to cool completely.
8. Store in an airtight container at room temperature and consume within 2 days. Alternately, it will keep for a week in the refrigerator.

Persian Herb Frittata (Kuku)

2009-03-13T23:35:00.006-04:00

Next Saturday, March 21, marks the first day of spring and the beginning of the Persian new year. Nowruz/Navroz, or new day, is celebrated in Iran as well as parts of Central Asia, South Asia, China, Eastern Europe, Turkey, the Caucasus and by people who trace their origin to these parts of the world.

In Iran Nowruz is observed with spring cleaning, purchase of new clothes, haircuts and gift exchange. A table is set with seven auspicious symbols, known as haft-sin, including sprouts symbolizing rebirth, sweet pudding symbolizing affluence, dried fruit symbolizing love, garlic symbolizing health, apples symbolizing beauty and health, sumac berries symbolizing sunrise and vinegar symbolizing age and patience. Many other items may also be added including candles, books and decorated eggs. Families spend the twelve day celebration visiting friends and family and on the thirteenth day finish with a picnic. In the Ismaili tradition, which I grew up in, the event is marked communally in the mosque.

Kuku is commonly served during Nowruz since it incorporates herbs and eggs which symbolize fertility. Akin to a Persian frittata, kuku is traditionally flavoured with advieh (a spice mixture containing dried rose petals). This version uses items likely to be in your pantry.

Serves 8-12

Ingredients
1 cup scallions

1 cup packed spinach (about 3 ounces)

1 cup parsley

1 cup cilantro
1 cup fresh dill

16 eggs
3 garlic cloves, minced
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon cardamom

1 1/2 teaspoons cumin
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black pepper, fresh ground

1 teaspoon baking powder

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Line a 13x9 inch baking dish with parchment. Butter the bottom and sides of the dish.
2. Finely chop the first five ingredients and combine in a large bowl. You can use a food processor to save chopping time.
3. Beat eggs in a medium bowl and then add remaining eight ingredients. Mix well.
4. Add egg mixture to greens until thoroughly combined.
5. Pour into baking dish and bake for 45 minutes or until firm in the center.
6. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Snickerdoodle Cake

2009-03-05T22:32:00.006-05:00

My boyfriend’s aunt was a home economics teacher for many years. This was one of her most popular recipes – a cake incarnation of the crowd pleasing snickerdoodle cookie. As a child I mistakenly thought the cookies contained bits of Snickers chocolate bar and was disappointed to find that they were chocolate-free sugar cookies rolled in cinnamon. The word ‘snicker’ most likely comes from the German word schnecke or the Dutch word snekrad which describe a snail-like shape. This light cake is made with whole wheat flour, reduced sugar and a modest amount of butter.

Serves 9

Ingredients
Topping
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon

Cake
1/2 cup unbleached, all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon cocoa (optional)
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 egg
1/2 cup milk
4 tablespoons butter, melted

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Lightly grease an 8x8 inch baking pan.
2. To make topping mix brown sugar and cinnamon in a bowl or glass. Set aside.
3. In a large bowl sift together flours, cocoa, cinnamon, sugar and baking powder. Set aside.
4. In a small bowl beat one egg. Add milk and mix well.
5. Pour wet ingredients into dry ingredients and stir. Add butter and mix thoroughly.
6. There will not be very much batter, but spread it into the greased pan in an even layer. Sprinkle with topping.
7. Bake for 30 minutes or until a tester inserted in the center comes out clean.
8. Cool cake for 10 minutes and serve warm slices with ice cream, frozen yogurt, whipped cream or on its own.

Stuffed Zucchini with Spicy Eggplant Ragout

2009-02-27T19:11:00.007-05:00

I’ve featured a couple of stuffed ‘vegetable’ recipes on this blog –mushrooms and peppers, though neither are technically vegetables. Today I’m featuring yet another fake vegetable, the zucchini, which is an immature fruit. I’ve written about zucchinis in another post so will not repeat myself. However, in re-reading that entry I realized that I never posted my zucchini bread recipe. I’m going to make it tomorrow for a friend who is visiting from San Francisco and will have it up on Treat a Week in the next few weeks. Vive lo zucchini!

Serves 6 as an appetizer, 3-4 as a main dish

Ingredients

Stuffed Zucchini
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons garlic, minced
1 medium onion, diced
1 1/2 cups ricotta cheese, regular or partly skimmed
1/3 cup parmesan cheese, grated
1/2 teaspoon dried basil
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt (or to taste)
1/4 teaspoon pepper (or to taste)
1/2 cup flavored bread crumbs
1 egg, lightly beaten
3 medium zucchinis
1/2 cup mozzarella, shredded

Spicy Eggplant Ragout
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon garlic, minced
1 medium eggplant, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
2 cups (1/2 bottle) high quality garlic or spicy prepared pasta sauce
4 sundried tomatoes (preserved in oil), thinly sliced
2 tablespoons capers
1/2 pepperoncini
1/4 teaspoon Tabasco (or to taste)

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 375 F.
2. To make the stuffed zucchini, in a large skillet over medium heat sauté garlic in olive oil until fragrant. Add onion and sauté until translucent. Set aside.
3. In a medium bowl, mix the next ten ingredients. Add the sautéed onions once they’ve cooled.
4. Wash zucchinis and chop off the ends. Slice in half lengthwise. Using a teaspoon, melon baller or paring knife, remove the inner flesh containing the seeds.

5. Fill the zucchini halves with the ricotta mixture. Place the zucchini in an oiled Pyrex baking dish. Sprinkle with mozzarella.
6. Bake for 30 minutes or until the ricotta mixture is set and the mozzarella has melted.
7. While the zucchinis are baking, make the eggplant ragout.
8. In the same large skillet on medium heat, sauté garlic in olive oil until fragrant.
9. Add eggplant and sauté for 8-10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add pasta sauce and cook for 4 more minutes. Reduce heat and add the remaining ingredients. Cook for a further 2 minutes. Turn off heat and keep the skillet covered.
10. By now the zucchinis should be baked. Broil them on low heat for 3-4 minutes or until the mozzarella begins to turn brown. Remember to leave the oven door open during broiling.

11. Serve the zucchini topped with eggplant ragout.

Beer and Chocolate Chili

2009-02-19T10:45:00.005-05:00

Chili, also known as chili con carne, is a stew traditionally made from beef, chili peppers, garlic, onions and spices. The origins of chili are unclear, but it seems to have been invented in Mexico in the mid to late nineteenth century. It was a popular way to use leftovers and to stretch available meat. One theory holds that it was served as a complimentary side dish at saloons before becoming a free-standing meal.

Today chili is primarily associated with Texas and is the state’s official dish. It became popular as a street food in San Antonio, where it was sold by women who became known as ‘chili queens’. Health department regulations ended this practice, after which chili parlors became popular. The dish acquired a national and international profile at the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago where it was served at the San Antonio Chile Stand.

Traditional Texan chili contains no beans, tomatoes or other vegetables. Purists have coined a popular phrase to underline this fact, “If you know beans about chili, you know chili ain’t got no beans.” However, these ingredients are now widely used in chili recipes to stretch portions, accommodate vegetarians or provide variety. Some recipes substitute beef with turkey, chicken, venison or other game meat. Vegetarian versions are also popular. Regional variations incorporate rice or macaroni, and many use ‘secret’ ingredients including fruit, alcohol, sweeteners, coffee, chocolate, peanut butter, spices or vinegar.

Chili is now served in a variety of ways including on spaghetti, baked potatoes, hot dogs, rice, corn chips or French fries. The dish has become a staple at Super Bowl parties. Its popularity has spread and chili is now available in France, Denmark, Sweden, Canada, United Kingdom, Japan and Australia.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
5 cloves garlic, chopped
2 medium yellow onions, chopped
1 green bell pepper, diced
1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 1/2 pounds spicy ground turkey
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon chili pepper flakes
1 ounce package spicy taco seasoning mix
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 ounce dark chocolate or 1 tablespoon cocoa powder
1 (12 ounce) bottle of lager-style beer or chicken broth
1 (14 1/2 ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1 (15 1/2 ounce) can kidney beans, rinsed and drained
1 (15 1/2 ounce) can black beans, rinsed and drained
Sour cream, shredded cheddar cheese or sliced scallions (all optional), for garnish

Directions
1. Heat half the olive oil in a large, heavy, preferably non-stick pot over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, onion, bell pepper, oregano and cumin and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Remove and set aside.
2. Heat remaining olive oil. Add the turkey, breaking it up with a metal or plastic spoon, and cook until the meat is no longer pink, about 3 minutes. Add back the onion and bell pepper mixture.

3. Stir in the tomato paste, chili pepper flakes, taco seasoning, salt, chili powder, and chocolate or cocoa powder; cook 1 minute more.

4. Add the beer and simmer on medium heat for 8-10 minutes.
5. Add the tomatoes and their juices, kidney beans, and black beans. Bring to a boil and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes.
6. Serve garnished with sour cream, cheddar cheese or sliced green onions. Serve with warn cornbread.
7. Store covered in the fridge for one week or in an airtight container in the freezer for three months.

Spicy Indian Cake (Ondhwo)

2009-02-14T09:34:00.011-05:00

Ondhwo is one of my comfort foods. It’s a flavorful Gujarati cake often served as an appetizer or tea-time snack. Although baked, it involves the addition of a vagaar, tempered spices, which I wrote about in a previous post. The cabbage is relatively unnoticeable but provides moisture that creates a dense cake. Ondhwo is similar to the more well-known dhokla – a lighter, steamed cake.

This is another recipe from my mom’s repertoire, although the chutney is my bastardized version of the original.

Serves 10-12

Ingredients

Savory Cake
1 1/4 cups chickpea flour (also known as besan, gram or chana flour)
2 1/2 cups semolina (also known as sooji)
3 cups cabbage, grated
2 1/2 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons plain yogurt
3 teaspoons garlic paste
3 teaspoons ginger paste
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 3/4 teaspoons salt
1/2 to 1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1 3/4 teaspoons citric acid
3 3/4 cups water
2 medium onions, diced
1 cup frozen peas
1/2 cup frozen carrots
3/4 cups vegetable oil (canola or corn)
3 teaspoons Eno’s fruit salt
10 dried whole red chillies, for garnish
2 to 3 sesame seeds, for garnish

Vagaar
1/4 cup vegetable oil (canola or corn)
1 1/2 teaspoons black mustard seeds
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
15-20 dried curry leaves (also known as limro)
2 teaspoons white sesame seeds

Tomato Chutney
2 cups spicy or garlicky bottled red pasta sauce
1 teaspoon hot chilli garlic sauce (“rooster sauce”) or to taste
1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 lemon, juiced

Directions
1. If possible, make the chutney a day or two in advance. To do this, mix all the ingredients in a small bowl. Add more chilli sauce or salt to taste. Store covered in the fridge until ready to serve.
2. Preheat oven to 325 F. Oil a 9-inch springform pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper.
3. To make the savory cake, mix chickpea flour and semolina. Add cabbage and mix well.
4. Add sugar, yogurt, garlic, ginger, turmeric, salt, chilli powder and citric acid. Mix well.
5. Add water, onions, peas and carrots. Then add oil and mix well. Set aside.
6. To make the vagaar, heat oil on low to medium heat for 3 minutes in a small skillet. Then add mustard seeds, cumin seeds, curry leaves, and sesame seeds and cook for 1 minute until fragrant. Remove skillet from the heat.
7. Add the hot vagaar to the savory cake mixture. Add Eno’s fruit salt and mix well.
8. Pour batter into springform pan. Sprinkle top with dried chillies and sesame seeds. Bake for 60-75 minutes until golden brown and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. To make individual ondhwos pour batter into aluminium muffin liners and bake for 20-30 minutes or until done.
9. Slice and serve warm with tomato chutney. Store in an airtight container for up to one week in the fridge or up to three months in the freezer.

Mexican Chicken Salad

2009-01-23T04:46:00.004-05:00

This recipe is from my boyfriend – inspired by a salad he saw in Dean and DeLuca. The Mexican moniker refers to the black beans which are high in dietary fiber and antioxidants. Also known as turtle beans, these legumes are widely eaten in Latin America and are key ingredients in the Costa Rican national dish gallo pinto and the Brazilian national dish feijoada. This chicken salad is fairly healthy – low in carbohydrates and high in flavor, especially when served with salsa or the yogurt sauce featured in this posting. It’s part of our monthly dinner rotation and holds up pretty well for up to five days.

Serves 8-10 as a side dish and 4-6 as a main dish

Ingredients

6 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons garlic paste or 4 cloves minced garlic

1 lb fresh chicken cutlets or breasts (preferably thin slice), cut into 3/4 inch pieces

15 ounces canned black beans, rinsed

1 can artichoke hearts, rinsed and coarsely chopped

1 red bell pepper, diced

1/2 teaspoon parsley flakes

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon basil flakes

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

salt and pepper, to taste

Directions
1. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil on medium. Add garlic and sauté for 30 seconds. Add chicken pieces and cook on both sides until the outside of the pieces are cooked. Cut a couple of thicker pieces to make sure they are no longer pink inside. Set aside.
2. In a large bowl mix black beans, artichoke, bell pepper and chicken.
3. Drizzle with remaining olive oil, parsley, oregano, basil and cayenne. Mix well. Add salt and pepper to taste.
4. Best made a day before serving so the flavors can mingle.
5. Can be served with salsa or yogurt sauce.

Peanut Butter Soup

2009-01-16T17:22:00.002-05:00

Many of you have been experiencing an Arctic cold front this week. My recommendation is homemade soup. This recipe, adapted from the Moosewood cookbook, is delicious served with buttermilk cornbread.

Serves 8 as a starter, 4-6 as a main dish

Ingredients
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 medium onions, coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon cayenne or to taste
2 tablespoons ginger, grated
1 large carrot, sliced
2 medium sweet potatoes, coarsely chopped
4 cups water
2 cups tomato juice
1 cup smooth peanut butter
3 green onions, chopped

Directions
1. Heat oil in a large pot and sauté onions until translucent. Add cayenne, ginger and carrots and sauté for 3 minutes.
2. Add sweet potatoes and water, and bring to a boil. Cover the pot and simmer until the vegetables are tender. Cool for a few minutes.
3. Add the tomato juice and peanut butter and puree in a blender or use an immersion blender.
4. Return to the pot and reheat gently.
5. Serve garnished with green onions.

Nicoise Pasta Salad

2009-01-10T09:12:00.005-05:00

This recipe is an adaptation of a classic from the French Mediterranean city of Nice (hence Niçoise). It is typically served as a combination of tuna, green beans, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, olives and hard-boiled eggs. Some versions also include anchovies, cucumbers, onions, lettuce and broad beans. When served on a baguette, it is known as pan-bagnat which means ‘wet bread’ in the regional dialect of Occitan (a language spoken in Southern France that is a close relative of Catalan). By adding pasta, this salad is transformed into a light dinner.

Ingredients

Pasta Salad

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 pound green beans, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch pieces

1 red bell pepper, chopped

8 ounces penne pasta, cooked and cooled

2 x 6- to 7-ounce can tuna, drained

3 green onions, thinly sliced

4 tablespoons capers

1/2 cup Kalamata olives (optional)

Vinaigrette

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1/2 lemon, juiced

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 garlic clove, minced

2 teaspoons dried oregano

salt and pepper, to taste

Directions

1. Over medium heat, sauté green beans and bell pepper in olive oil for 2 minutes.

2. In a large bowl, mix all of the pasta salad ingredients.

3. In a small jar, add all of the vinaigrette ingredients and shake well. Pour over pasta salad and mix well.

4. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately. Can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Triple Layer Chocolate Coconut Cake

2008-12-31T16:16:00.000-05:00

I baked this cake last week for a family birthday party. It is a combination of a two layer coconut cake and a two layer chocolate cake which can be made separately or combined into a three layer cake (with a single layer left over).

The tradition of the birthday cake may date to ancient Greek times when round or moon-shaped cakes were offered to Artemis, the Goddess of the moon and hunting. Apparently these cakes were also decorated with candles to make the cake glow like the moon. It is unclear whether these cakes influenced the Roman tradition of simple, round, yeast-leavened, honey-sweetened cakes served on important birthdays.

Another theory about the birthday cake has its origins in Germany. In medieval times, sweetened bread dough was baked to commemorate Jesus’ birthday. The custom was reborn in the 18th century as Kinderfest, a German children’s birthday celebration. Placing candles on the cake was believed to draw on the 16th century German tradition of placing candles on Christmas trees. Candles are believed to symbolize the passing of time. In North America, the number of candles placed on the cake is equivalent to the age of the person, though in Germany at that time a few extra candles were placed on the cake for good luck in upcoming years.

By the 15th century the production and consumption of sugar had escalated (through slave sugarcane production in the New World), and European cakes became ornate, multi-layered confections. Such cakes were only available to the wealthy. As a result of the industrial revolution, tools and materials necessary for home baking became more readily available. The Germans also baked a multi-layered sweet cake called Geburtstagorten which may have been a precursor to the modern birthday cake. Today’s North American birthday cake is usually a frosted, multi-layered affair. The layers are separating by cream, fruit, jam, or frosting.

Cakes are often decorated with the phrase “Happy Birthday” which was popularized as a result of the song “Happy Birthday to You”. While the origin of the lyrics is disputed, the melody was popularized (though not necessarily created) by the Hill sisters, kindergarten teachers from Louisville, Kentucky. The song has the distinction of being the most well-recognized song in the English language.

This cake is a crowd pleaser and is ideal for birthday, anniversaries or other special occasions. It does take a fair amount of effort but if you do the work over several days, it is quite manageable.

Serves 16-20 people

Ingredients
Two Layer Coconut Cake
2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt

10 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 1/3 cups granulated sugar

3 eggs
2/3 cup coconut milk

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon pure almond extract

Two Layer Chocolate Cake
2 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour
3/4 cups unsweetened cocoa
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
1 3/4 cups granulated sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
3 large eggs
1 1/3 cups milk

Coconut Filling (for a Three Layer Cake)
6 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons milk

1/4 cup shredded or flaked coconut

Chocolate Coconut Frosting (for a Three Layer Cake)
12 tablespoons butter, softened

1 cup cocoa powder

5 1/3 cups powdered sugar
2/3 cup coconut milk, plus more if needed

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/2 cup or more unsweetened flaked coconut

Directions
Two Layer Cake – same directions for both cakes
1. Butter two 9-inch cake pans (note that you measure the radius of a cake pan at the top, not the bottom, of the pan). Place a circular piece of parchment in each pan, and re-butter and flour the pan. Preheat the oven to 350 F.
2. In a small bowl, mix flour and other dry ingredients. Set aside.
3. With an electric mixer, cream butter until light and fluffy. Add sugar and beat for 5 minutes to incorporate air into the mixture.
4. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.
5. While constantly beating, add 1/3 of the flour mixture, followed by 1/2 of the coconut milk. Repeat and finish with the remaining flour mixture.
6. Add extracts and continue to beat until just mixed.
7. Spoon batter into cake pans, and level with a knife. Rap cake pans on counter top several times to remove excess air bubbles.
8. Bake for 25-35 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean.
9. Cool for 10 minutes in the pan. Slide a butter knife around the edge of the cake to detach it from the side of the pan. Invert onto a cooling rack and cool completely. The cakes can be made several days in advance. Store in an airtight container or Ziplock bag to keep moist.

Coconut Filling (for a Three Layer Cake)
1. In a small bowl mix together all of the ingredients. Can be made several days ahead and stored, covered, in the refrigerator.

Chocolate Frosting (for a Three Layer Cake)
1. Mix powdered sugar and cocoa and set aside.
2. With an electric mixer beat butter until light and fluffy.
3. While constantly beating, slowly add sugar/cocoa mixture alternatively with milk until incorporated.
4. Blend in vanilla and beat to a spreading consistency. Add more milk if necessary.
5. Can be made several days ahead and stored, covered, in the refrigerator. To use, bring up to room temperature (requires about 30-60 minutes). You may need to add additional milk or water to get it to a spreading consistency after refrigeration.

Assembling a Three Layer Cake
1. Bake two coconut and two chocolate cakes. You will have an extra layer that can be frozen for up to one month. I would not recommend making a four layer cake as it will be extremely difficult to assemble, slice and serve.
2. On a cake plate or other large flat plate, place the bottom layer top-down (so that you have the bottom of the cake facing up). Frost to within 1/2 inch of the edge using 1/6 to 1/8 of the chocolate frosting. With a spoon spread 1/2 of the coconut filling to within 1/2 inch of the edge of the frosting. Do not skip the coconut filling as it provides necessary moisture for the final cake. When frosting, it is best to place all the frosting in the center of the area to be frosted and push the frosting to the edge rather than pull frosting to the edge. Pulling can sometimes gather up cake crumbs from the service.

3. Place the next cake layer top-side up. Frost to within 1/2 inch of the edge using 1/6 to 1/8 of the chocolate frosting. With a spoon spread 1/2 of the coconut filling to within 1/2 inch of the edge of the frosting.

4. Place the final cake layer top-side up. Press down gently to adhere the layers to each other and to test the stability of the cake.

5. Using a butter knife, cover the top and sides of the cake with 1/3 of the remaining frosting. This is called the crumb layer of frosting and it traps cake crumbs so that they do not end up on the outside of the cake. Refrigerate the cake for 1 hour to seal the crumb layer.

6. Remove the cake from the refrigerator, and cover generously with the remaining frosting. Use the frosting to even out the sides of the cake. Top with flaked coconut and gently press coconut into frosting to adhere. Cool cake again to set the frosting.

7. To serve the cake, use a long serrated knife to slice and a deep pie slice to remove the cake. If you slice too thinly, the three layers may fall apart. The cake can be covered tightly with saran wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to five days.

Blueberry Peach Muffins

2008-12-20T08:53:00.004-05:00

The other day I saw an ad in the subway urging New Yorkers to consume fewer calories. It’s part of a campaign to remind (maybe inform is more appropriate) people of the recommended daily caloric intake of 2000, and to feature food that has more calories than one would expect. The ad showed an innocuous muffin with a banner noting that it contains a whopping 470 calories.

The term muffin was first seen in English in 1703. It comes either from the Low German muffen for small cake or the Old French moufflet for soft. Early versions were limited to a single type of grain (such as corn, oat or bran) with the addition of simple additives such as raisins, nuts or apples. These muffins had a short shelf-life, and were thus not commonly sold in bakeries.

With the decline of home baking, growing coffee consumption and the health food movement, muffins began to be sold commercially in the mid twentieth century. This required an increase in sugar, fat and preservatives which put them into dangerous territory of being mistaken for cupcakes (without frosting).

At some point the shape of the commercial muffin changed from a small domed top to the mushroom top. This instigated the muffin top craze where retailers produced disproportionately large muffin tops; some produced muffin tops without bodies. The tops were valued for their crispy texture in contrast to the cakey texture of the muffin body.

I was part of the muffin top generation. As a child, I thought muffins were a healthy breakfast alternative to donuts. I used to love the chocolate chip version at the now-defunct Canadian chain mmmarvelous mmmuffins. The other meaning of muffin top can be found here.

This healthy recipe comes from my friend Mira’s father. I first encountered these muffins in Oxford, and got to sample more of Philip’s excellent cooking a couple of years later on a trip to Iowa City. The adapted version contains peaches and blueberries which can be substituted with other fruit in. Philip’s original recipe had 1 cup apple, 1/2 cup carrot and 1/2 cup zucchini. These are perfect breakfast muffins – ideal during the holidays when you have a full house.

Makes a dozen regular sized muffins

Ingredients
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 unbleached all-purpose flour
1/3 cup oat bran
1/3 cup wheat germ
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup slivered almonds
1 cup ripe peach (about 1 peach)
1 cup blueberries
1 3/4 cups whole milk
1 egg, lightly beaten
4 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
coarse sugar and/or slivered almonds, for garnish (optional)

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 F (180 C). Place foil liners in muffin pan or grease and flour each muffin cup.
2. Mix all but the last four ingredients together in a big bowl.
3. In a small bowl mix milk, egg and oil. Add wet ingredients to flour mixture.
4. Spoon batter into muffin liners. Fill to 1/4 inch from the top of the liner. Sprinkle with coarse sugar or slivered almonds.
5. Bake at 350F for 20-25 minutes or until lightly browned. Do not overbake.
6. Cool in muffin pan for 5 minutes. These muffins are best eaten warm and served with jam, honey and/or butter.

Stuffed Bell Peppers

2008-12-13T14:23:00.001-05:00

Over the past several months we have made stuffed zucchini on two or three occasions. It was the next recipe in our dinner schedule, but a recent visit to the doctor made us reconsider the cheesy stuffing high in saturated fat. We decided to come up with a healthy alternative and settled on brown rice. We supplemented it with zucchini, olives and a bit of mozzarella. Later, we realized this would be a great way to use up leftover rice (in fact, we found some such rice in our fridge after we made a new batch).

Instead of zucchini we used bell peppers, also known as sweet peppers, capsicum or simply peppers. In some European countries they are called paprika, which is also the name of the spice made from its dried fruit that has become synonymous with Hungarian cuisine. They are native to Mexico, Central America and northern South America, and were spread to Asia and Europe by Christopher Columbus who took their seeds to Spain in 1493. Bell peppers are most commonly green in color, though red, orange and yellow fruit are commonly available. More rarely, they can be white, brown, blue or purple. The color depends on the cultivar and time of harvest. While styled as vegetables, bell peppers are actually fruit.

The word pepper has its origins in Sanskrit. It is a confusing term since it can refer to plants in three different groups: the pepper family which is known for the dried and ground berries of plants including black pepper and cubeb; the myrtle family including allspice and the West Indian bay tree; and the nightshade family which is known for the multi-colored fruit of plants including bell pepper, and many types of types of chili peppers. The term pepper has also been used to refer to trees described as pepper trees and pepperwood trees, which are so named because they have traits similar to other plants we refer to as pepper, such as having spicy leaves or producing berries that are dried and ground into spices.

This recipe makes a great appetizer, or can be a satisfying main dish served as a double portion with a hearty salad. Great for people with celiac disease and can be adapted for vegans by skipping the cheeses, using a substitute, or topping with hummus.

Serves 8 as appetizer, 4 for main meal

Ingredients
4 large red bell peppers
2 teaspoons garlic paste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon dried basil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
6 ounce zucchini, grated
1/2 cup olives, chopped (optional)
3/4 cup bottled tomato pasta sauce
1 cup brown rice
1 cup mozzarella, partly skimmed
1/4 cup grated Parmesan (optional)

Directions
1. Cook the rice and set aside to cool.

2. Preheat oven to 400 F.

3. Cut peppers into half lengthwise or widthwise. Remove stems, seeds and membranes.
4. Blanch in boiling water for 3 minutes to soften.
5. In a large bowl, mix the remaining ingredients including half the mozzarella but not the Parmesan.
6. Scoop mixture into peppers and top each with remaining mozzarella. Sprinkle with Parmesan.
7. Place peppers in a lightly sprayed baking dish. Bake for 15-20 minutes or until cheese is bubbling and slightly brown.

Red Pepper, Broccoli and Tofu Stir-Fry

2008-12-06T14:43:00.012-05:00

I was at a conference this week which included surprisingly delicious meals. One night we had a buffet dinner in a gymnasium but the spread was amazing. There was a meat carving station, pasta bar, sweet potato bar (served in martini glasses with nuts, coconut and raisin toppings), smoked salmon station, boiled egg ‘Santas’ and French pastries. There was also a ‘sushi’ station which I put in quotation marks because it was California rolls served with ‘condiments’ that you took with a spoon including ‘wasabi’ sauce, soy sauce and ginger. I remarked to a friend that the Japanese would probably be appalled with what we’ve done to their cuisine. As I thought more about it, I realized that many dishes or cooking techniques that originate in other parts of the world have changed drastically in this country. I am as guilty of this as anyone else.

This week I’m featuring an American version of stir-fry which is significantly different from its Chinese origin. The term stir-fry was coined by Chinese American physician B.Y. Chao in her notable book How to Cook and Eat in Chinese. The goal of stir-frying is to impart wok hei (Cantonese) or wok chi or qi (Mandarin) – the ‘essence’ of the wok on the food. Stir-frying requires very high temperatures and cold oil with a high smoke point (such as peanut oil or lard).

There are two traditional stir-fry methods. In the chao technique, oil, ginger and garlic are added, followed closely by meat which is seared by rapid and quick tossing. The meat is then removed and vegetables and liquids are added. The wok is covered briefly to steam the vegetables (if there are large pieces of meat they may be re-introduced and steamed as well). In the other technique, bao, the oil, seasonings and meat are put in together and tossed continually. Vegetables may be added later but they too are continually tossed. The ingredients are usually cut into smaller pieces so they can be cooked without steaming.

While my dish may be more accurately described as sautéed vegetables and tofu, I’m going to stick with stir-fry – the American version.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients
3 tablespoons canola or corn oil
1 teaspoons sesame oil
1 block extra firm tofu (10 to 16 ounces), cut into small pieces
1/2 teaspoon red chilli powder
black pepper freshly ground, to taste
2 teaspoons garlic (minced or paste)
1 red pepper, cut into bite-size pieces
1 head broccoli, cut into florets
1 can water chestnuts, drained
1/3 cup spicy stir-fry sauce (I use House of Tsang)

Directions
1. In a large skillet on medium heat, add 2 tablespoons canola/corn oil and 1/2 teaspoon of sesame oil.
2. Place all tofu pieces in skillet (with largest surface area down) and season with chilli powder and black pepper. Sauté until light brown on one side which will take about 10 minutes. Flip all tofu pieces so the opposite side is facing down. Sauté for a further 10 minutes. The tofu is done when it appears pockmarked on its surface. Set aside.
3. Add the remaining oils and sauté garlic for 30 seconds.
4. Sauté red pepper for 2-3 minutes. Add water chestnuts and broccoli and sauté until broccoli is bright green (about 2 minutes).
5. Add stir-fry sauce and heat for a further 2 minutes.
6. Remove from heat and serve with rice or couscous.

Black and Brown Pecan Pie

2008-11-27T08:57:00.006-05:00

Thanksgiving, like many holidays around the world, involves celebration through feasting. For me, these occasions (and many others) center around dessert. What I appreciate about Thanksgiving is that the desserts, like the holiday, are natural, simple and rustic. The focus is on fall harvest ingredients like pumpkins and sweet potatoes. Pecans also fall into this category with a traditional mid-October harvest.

Pecans are indigenous to the United States and Mexico. The name is derived from an Algonquin word meaning a nut requiring a stone to crack. They first came to European attention in the 1600s and were long a delicacy in colonial America. Domestic cultivation did not begin until the 1880s and today the U.S. accounts for over 80% of international production which exceeds 150,000 tons. Georgia leads the nation in terms of pecan production, and is followed by Texas (where it is the state tree), New Mexico and Oklahoma. Pecan trees grow up to 145 feet and can live for 300 years.

Pecan pie is made primarily from corn syrup and pecans. Some claim it was invented by the French in New Orleans, though no recipes of it appear in print prior to 1925. The dish became popularized by the makers of Karo syrup, America’s most popular brand of corn syrup. The company claims that the pie was invented by the wife of a sales executive. Regardless of its origin, it has become an American classic. This is a wonderful and sinful twist on the original. Pecan pie is also a great and easy Christmas dessert.

Serves 8-12

Ingredients
1 pie crust, store-bought or homemade (store in refrigerator overnight)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup smooth peanut butter
1 cup light corn syrup or Golden syrup
3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
1 1/4 cups pecans

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 325 F. Remove pie crust from the fridge. Allow to warm slightly or it will crack during preparation.
2. In a large bowl, microwave butter and peanut butter until soft, about 1 minute.
3. Add corn syrup, brown sugar, eggs and vanilla and mix well.
4. Stir in chocolate chips and pecans.
5. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pie crust until it is 10-11 inches in diameter. Draping it over the rolling pin, transfer to a 9-inch pie dish.
6. Pour mixture into crust-lined pan. Crimp the pie crust and bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until filling is set.
7. Cool to room temperature before serving. For a gooey pie, serve at room temperature; for a firmer pie, cool in refrigerator overnight and serve cold. Can be served with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream. Store in refrigerator.

Mom's Pound Cake

2008-11-20T06:37:00.009-05:00

Pound cake is a traditional English recipe consisting of equal portions (originally one pound) of butter, sugar, eggs and flour. The cake is still common in England where it is often contains dried and candied fruit. It is made in other parts of the world including France (where it is called quartre-quarts meaning four quarters) and Mexico (where it is called panqué and is often made with walnuts or raisins). The traditional recipe used no leaveners and was rich and dense.

This version is adapted from my mom’s recipe. It has half the fat of a traditional pound cake and uses orange juice, generous vanilla extract and citrus zest to give the cake flavor.

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

1 stick unsalted butter
3/4 cup granulated sugar
4 large eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/3 cup orange juice
1 3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
zest of a lemon or orange (optional)
raisins, dried cherries, candied fruit and/or sliced almonds (optional)

Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Butter and flour a Bundt pan.
2. Using a hand mixer, cream butter and sugar until fluffy. Add eggs, vanilla, orange juice and zest and continue to mix.
3. Add flour and baking powder and mix well.
4. In the pan, distribute dried fruit and nuts around the ring (optional). Scoop batter into pan. It may not look like very much batter but it will rise significantly.
5. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until a cake tester comes out clean.
6. Cool in the pan for 15 minutes. Gently shake the cake and invert onto a cake plate.
7. Serve on its own or with whipped cream, a dusting of powdered sugar or with butter and jam. Can also be toasted or egg-battered and pan fried.

Lime Shrimp Curry

2008-11-12T07:34:00.006-05:00

When I became an omnivore in 2005, after an eleven-year vegetarian period, I eased into it by starting with seafood. Among the most innocuous items in this category are shrimp, especially when they have undergone euphemistic transformation – “peeled” (de-headed and de-tailed) and “deveined” (intestinal removal). Then (and now) I am thankful that shrimp don’t require any dissection in the kitchen or at the table. They can simply be popped into the mouth whole.

Beyond ease of preparation, shrimp are high in protein, calcium and cholesterol, and low in calories. They are used in a wide variety of dishes throughout the world, most notably Spanish paella de marisco, American shrimp cocktail, Thai tom yum soup and Italian-American scampi.

Shrimp are ten-footed, filter-feeding crustaceans that live on or near the ocean floor. In 2005, almost 3.5 million metric tons of shrimp and prawns were harvested from the sea. Shrimp are collected largely through trawling, a system of nets that sweep the oceans and inadvertently catches many non-target species. A study by the Food and Agriculture Organization found that for every pound of shrimp harvested, almost 6 pounds of non-shrimp animals were caught in trawling nets. Since the 1970s, shrimp have also been raised on shrimp farms. Worldwide production in 2003 was 1.6 million tons - largely produced in Thailand, China and Brazil.

This curry is adapted from a recipe by Ruth Reichl which appears in her book Comfort Me with Apples. I’ve removed the butter and heavy cream and added more vegetables.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients
1 pound shrimp, peeled, deveined and cooked
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 onion, chopped
3 tablespoons curry powder
1/2 teaspoon ginger powder
1/2 teaspoon cardamom
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon chilli powder
1 tablespoon flour
1 can coconut milk (light coconut milk will work)
2 cups broth (chicken or vegetable)
1 lime, zest and juice
1 head of broccoli, chopped into bite-sized florets
1 can of whole straw mushrooms
salt and pepper to taste

Directions
1. Defrost the shrimp according to directions on the packet or cook fresh shrimp. Set aside at room temperature.
2. Over medium heat sauté and garlic and onion in olive oil until translucent, about 5 minutes.
3. Add all the spices and flour and continue to cook for 2 minutes.
4. Add the coconut milk, broth and all the zest of the lime and bring to a boil.
5. Add broccoli and simmer for 3 minutes. Then add the mushrooms, juice of the lime and salt and pepper to taste.
6. Remove from heat and add shrimp. If you cook the shrimp they can get rubbery. Since they are pre-cooked they only need to be warmed up, which keeps them tender. Allow shrimp to warm up for 2-3 minutes and serve immediately.
7. Serve over rice or couscous. Best served with a spicy Indian pickle. I recommend this lime version.

Rose Milk Fudge (Burfi)

2008-11-04T18:39:00.003-05:00

I made this burfi (as well as the treat featured last week) in celebration of Divali, the Hindu New Year or Festival of Lights. According to Hindu belief, followers of Lord Rama honoured his return to Ayodhya with rows of lamps (deepavali in Sanskrit) after a fourteen-year exile during which he triumphed over King Ravana who had kidnapped his wife Sita. Divali is the shortened form of the word deepavali.

There are many other significant events associated with Divali in Hinduism as well as Jainism and Sikhism. Divali is observed as a celebration of the victory of good over evil and the uplifting of spiritual darkness. It also marks the end of the harvest season, and is associated with Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity. Traditionally, Divali marked the end of the fiscal year.

During Divali people light candles, set off fireworks, eat sweets and dried fruit, and give gifts (especially new clothes) to children. Many families create a rangoli at the entrance to their house.

I’ve been celebrating Divali for many years now. I usually invite friends over for dessert. This year I also made some savory treats which I will feature on this blog in the coming weeks.

Makes 30 pieces

Ingredients
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 lb ricotta cheese (full fat or partly skimmed)
1 cup granulated sugar
5 drops of red food color (add more for a deeper pink)
1-2 teaspoons of rose water
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
3/4 teaspoon cardamom
2 1/2 cups powdered milk
2 ounces almonds, chopped
2 ounces pistachios, chopped

Directions
1. In a large pot over medium heat, melt butter. Add ricotta cheese and cook for 8 minutes.
2. Add sugar, food color, rose water, nutmeg and cardamom. Stir for a further 6 minutes.
3. Add powdered milk and mix for a further 4 minutes.
4. Pour the mixture into a metal brownie pan (6 x 10 inches). Sprinkle with nuts and press them into the mixture.
5. Cool to room temperature and then refrigerate overnight.
6. Cut into rectangular pieces before serving. Will last for two or more weeks in the refrigerator.

Tree Sap Fudge (Goondh Paak)

2008-10-24T09:35:00.007-04:00

Before you dismiss this recipe, remember that maple sugar is also tree sap.

This recipe uses one of the most unusual ingredients that I’ve featured on this blog – gum arabic. Also known as gum acacia or meska, this is the hardened tree sap from two species of the Acacia tree. Although cultivated in Arabia and West Asia since antiquity, European colonialism saw a strong rise in gum arabic production in West Africa. It is been highly prized for its properties as a binding agent and emulsifier, and one that is not toxic to humans. After African independence, it also became cultivated in East Africa - between the 1950s and 1990s Sudan accounted for 80% of world production. Today Chad, Nigeria and Sudan produce over 95% of worldwide exports.

Gum arabic has been used for many industrial applications including photographic gum printing; watercolour paint production; and production of pyrotechnics, shoe polish, and lickable adhesives. It is also a common ingredient in processed food – just check the ingredient lists on marshmallows, gum drops, chewing gum, soft drinks, M&Ms, confections, syrups and ice cream. Some readers may remember the contention that Osama bin Laden controlled significant gum arabic production in Sudan, and that the West should boycott the item. This claim was later refuted by the U.S. State Department.

Gund paak is a rich, though not cloyingly sweet, dessert. Although it uses whole wheat flour, it also contains a generous amount of butter and is thus best consumed in moderation.

Makes 64 pieces

Ingredients
10 ounces almonds, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon cardamom
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
2 pounds (8 sticks) unsalted butter
4 ounces of gum arabic (also known as gum acacia) or gum substitute in small pieces
5 cups whole wheat flour
1/4 teaspoon powdered orange food color (optional), available in South Asian food stores
1 pound jaggery, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup evaporated milk
2 ounces pistachios, coarsely chopped

Directions
1. In a small bowl mix 8 ounces of almonds, cardamom and nutmeg. Set aside.
2. In a large cooking pot, melt butter on medium. Test temperature by placing one piece of gum arabic into the butter. It should bubble and float to the surface as a white popped form. If it doesn’t pop, then the butter is not hot enough; if it becomes browns, then the butter is too hot.
3. Once the temperature is correct, fry the gum arabic in 6-10 small batches . Remove with a slotted spoon and dry and cool on paper towels. When cool, mix with the almond mixture. Set aside. [See above photo of friend gum arabic]
4. Add flour to the same butter. Cook for 15-20 minutes, stirring continuously, until the mixture becomes golden brown in color. If you stop stirring, it will splatter as hot air bursts through the flour mixture. You may also burn it.
5. Add food color and jaggery, and keep cooking until the jaggery melts.
6. Add the evaporated milk and the almond/gum mixture and continue to cook for 5-7 more minutes.
7. Transfer to a deep, large baking sheet (11x16) and spread evenly using the back of a metal spoon. Sprinkle with pistachios and remaining almonds, and use the spoon to embed the nuts into the mixture.
8. Cool to room temperature and then cut into 64pieces using a pizza cutter. Store in fridge for up to two weeks or in the freezer for several months.

Three Vegetable and Potato Curry

2008-10-17T08:03:00.008-04:00

Although I’ve featured over one hundred recipes on this blog, this is one of the few that resembles what I grew up eating for dinner on a regular basis. In Gujarati Ismaili cuisine, there are two basic types of curry – a brown curry made with onions and tomatoes that features meat and a red curry made with tomatoes only that features vegetables. Of course, there are many dishes that don’t fit into this nomenclature including the coconut chicken curry and others that are actually inspired by the Swahili people of the East African coast, and not an adaptation of Gujarati food from India.

One of the key features of Indian cooking is what I grew up calling vagaar (but is more commonly known as chhaunk or tadka in the rest of South Asia) which refers to the ‘tempering’ of spices. This involves frying whole spices in oil or ghee to release essential oils that result in a more flavourful dish. The process is also said to aid in digestion and release the healing powers of spices such as carotene found in curry leaves. In this recipe, the vagaar is made at the beginning and tomatoes and other spices are added to the vagaar to form a paste. In other recipes, a vagaar is added at the end to a cooked dish such as a lentil or stew.

This technique is common in other types of cooking as well. To cook vegetables or meat, we often temper garlic and/or onions in oil or butter before adding the main ingredient. Does anyone know if the vagaar technique diffused to Europe and North America or if it developed independently in the West?

Serves 4-6

Ingredients
3/4 lb red potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons vegetable oil (preferably canola)
1/2 teaspoon black mustard seeds
pinch cumin seeds
5 curry leaves (optional)
2 medium tomatoes, finely chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon ginger paste
1 teaspoon garlic, paste or finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or to taste)
1/4 teaspoon hot chilli powder (or to taste)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon coriander powder
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
2/3 lb French beans or string beans, ends removed, cut into 1-inch pieces
2/3 lb small eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 cup peas (frozen is acceptable)
1/2 cup water
1/2 bunch cilantro, stems removed and finely chopped
Serve with flatbread (rice, chapatis, parathas, puris, tortillas, wraps or whole wheat Pita)
Serve with lime pickle (optional)

Directions
1. Boil potatoes until almost cooked. Cool to room temperature. Can be done a day in advance but make sure potatoes are at room temperature for this recipe.
2. In a large pot, heat oil on medium. Add mustard seeds, cumin seeds and curry leaves. When mustard seeds pop, add the next nine ingredients (tomatoes and spices). Cook for 3-4 minutes – until you have a rich red puree [see above photo].
3. Add in the beans and cook for 2-3 minutes. Then add eggplant and 1/2 cilantro and continue to cook until all vegetables are just tender.
4. Add cooked potatoes, peas and water (to provide the consistency you prefer). Cook for 1-2 minutes until warm. Garnish with remaining cilantro and serve.
5. This curry is best eaten with flatbread. Click here to find out the technique. Also, serve with some type of spicy pickle. I recommend Patak’s lime pickle, which is divine. The curry can be eaten for up to 5 days, and often tastes better on the second or third day.

Flourless Peanut Butter Cookies

2008-10-10T10:41:00.005-04:00

A couple of weeks ago I celebrated the one year anniversary of my friends Josh and Claire. A group of us had been at their wedding last summer in Italy, and we decided to gather in Chicago to mark the occasion. We were hosted by our Italian friends Francesca and Giorgio who made a delicious Kosher and celiac-friendly meal (in respect of Josh’s dietary restrictions) which included grilled eggplant and beef-wrapped cheese as appetizers, pesto and béchamel sauce lasagna (and a gluten free pesto lasagna), pomegranate and orange salad and poached pears. I made a modest contribution of orange chocolate mousse and flourless peanut butter cookies.

You might wonder what inspired this unusual constellation of desserts. Well, while I was in Chicago I received an unexpected gift from my friend Lisa. Last March she read my post about the messiness of using natural peanut butter in making peanut butter cookies. Ever thoughtful, she found and purchased a no-mess natural peanut butter stirrer for me (image below). This act of kindness and Josh’s allergy inspired this recipe, which I hope will thrill celiacs and non-celiacs alike.

Ingredients
1 cup smooth peanut butter
1 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 egg

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350F.
2. In a medium bowl, mix peanut butter, sugar and vanilla. Add egg and mix well.
3. Drop by heaping teaspoons on an ungreased cookie sheet. Use the back of a fork to flatten the ball and create a pattern of fork tines. Press the fork again, this time creating a perpendicular pattern.
4. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes – until the tops of the cookies are just dry. Watch closely as cookies will burn if baked too long. Remove to a cooking rack as soon as possible.
5. These cookies are delicate so refrigerate overnight and serve cold.